Moskari by Houbigant c1887

The fragrance "Moskari" by Houbigant, launched around 1887, holds a significant place in the history of perfumery. This era marked the peak of Houbigant's influence, renowned for creating elegant and sophisticated scents that captivated the senses. "Moskari," with its alluring name, evokes a sense of exoticism and refinement that was characteristic of late 19th and early 20th-century perfumes. This period was a golden age for Houbigant, whose creations were synonymous with luxury and taste.

The name "Moskari" most likely refers to the grape hyacinth, known as muscari. The muscari flower, with its delicate, fragrant blooms, embodies the same elegance and charm that Houbigant sought to capture in their fragrances. The name suggests a connection to nature's beauty and the subtle, intricate scents that were highly prized in perfumery. Interestingly, a closer examination reveals a potential cultural mistranslation that adds another layer of depth to the fragrance's story.

In Hindi, "muscari" (मुस्कारि) translates to "smile," a meaning that resonates deeply with the romantic and emotive nature often associated with perfumes of this era. This interpretation suggests that "Moskari" was designed not just to evoke sensory delight but also to capture the essence of joy and allure. The notion of a smile aligns beautifully with the fragrance's purpose, aiming to bring happiness and a touch of enchantment to those who wear it. This blend of linguistic nuances and cultural interpretations enriches the narrative of "Moskari," highlighting its timeless appeal.

As the fragrance transitioned to be sold under the Houbigant-owned Cheramy label post-1923, it adapted to changing tastes while maintaining its legacy. This evolution underscores Houbigant's ability to blend tradition with innovation, ensuring that "Moskari," whether under its original name or as part of the Cheramy line, continued to enchant perfume aficionados for generations to come. The fragrance's enduring popularity is a testament to its captivating essence and the masterful craftsmanship of Houbigant, who succeeded in creating a scent that transcends time and cultural boundaries.

photo by Bennett

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: phenylacetic aldehyde, bergamot, clove, orange blossom
• Middle notes: violet, ylang ylang, rose, heliotrope, orris, tuberose, jasmine
• Base notes: musk, ambergris, cinnamic alcohol, ionone and rhodinol

 The fragrance "Moskari" by Houbigant, launched around 1887, is a masterpiece of olfactory art that encapsulates the elegance and sophistication characteristic of the late 19th century. This perfume is a complex and enchanting blend that unfolds in three harmonious stages, each layer revealing a new dimension of its rich composition.

The top notes of "Moskari" introduce the fragrance with a bright and invigorating burst of scents. Phenylacetic aldehyde lends a honeyed and slightly floral aroma that immediately captures attention. This is complemented by the fresh, citrusy zest of bergamot, which adds a crisp and uplifting facet. The spiciness of clove provides a warm, piquant contrast, enhancing the overall complexity of the opening. Orange blossom weaves in a delicate, sweet floral note that balances the initial impression, creating an inviting and alluring beginning.

As "Moskari" transitions to its heart, the middle notes reveal a lush bouquet of floral essences. Violet offers a soft, powdery sweetness, while ylang ylang adds a rich, exotic, and slightly fruity aroma. The inclusion of rose contributes a classic, romantic touch, evoking timeless elegance. Heliotrope imparts a creamy, almond-like scent, adding depth and warmth to the floral heart. Orris, derived from iris root, brings a sophisticated and slightly woody note, enhancing the perfume's overall complexity. Tuberose introduces a creamy, heady floral aroma, while jasmine infuses the heart with its iconic, opulent, and intoxicating fragrance. Together, these florals create a harmonious and luxurious middle accord that is both captivating and multifaceted.

The base notes of "Moskari" provide a lasting foundation that anchors the fragrance with depth and warmth. Musk introduces a sensual and animalistic quality, creating a lingering allure. Ambergris, known for its unique and rich scent, adds a touch of marine and earthy tones, enhancing the perfume's longevity and complexity. Cinnamic alcohol, with its sweet and spicy character, brings a warm, resinous depth to the base. Ionone, with its violet-like aroma, adds a powdery and floral nuance, while rhodinol, known for its rosy scent, complements the base with a subtle yet persistent floral sweetness. These base notes blend seamlessly to create a long-lasting and mesmerizing finish that lingers on the skin, making "Moskari" a truly unforgettable fragrance.

Overall, "Moskari" by Houbigant is a sophisticated and multi-layered perfume that beautifully balances bright top notes, a rich floral heart, and a deep, enduring base. Each note is meticulously chosen to contribute to a harmonious and captivating olfactory experience, making "Moskari" a timeless classic in the world of perfumery.

"PARFUMERIE SPÉCIALE AU MOSKARI

"The essence forming the basis of Moskari Perfumery is extracted from a very fragrant odor that grows in the eastern part of China; it is specially distilled on site for our House, which has ensured its ownership.

It will be easy to convince oneself, with use, that Moskari products are superior and worthy of attracting attention; they contain in taste their effectiveness the principles specific to the hygiene of the body, the freshness of the complexion and the conservation of beauty."

 

 EAU DE TOILETTE AU MOSKARI

We have composed with Moskari, an Eau de Toilette whose rich fragrance and real properties are well established. — Used in lotion or in the bath, it refreshes the complexion, softens the skin while preserving its velvety feel and exerts a hygienic and beneficial action on the organism.

• Per litre, bottle with emery cap..14 francs 80
• 1/2 litre, bottle with emery cap..7 francs 50
• Large model cylindrical bottle with emery cap 3 francs 80
• Small model flat bottle with cork stopper, 1 franc 95

 

 SAVON AU MOSKARI

This soap is especially recommended for dancers whose exquisite dermal sensitivity refuses to use other soaps. It whitens the skin and impregnates it with a delicious scent.

• The box of 3 ... 5 francs 70.
• The liter, fl. emery cap 14 fr. 80
• 1/2 liter id. id. 1 fr. 50

 

ESSENCE DE MOSKARI

The Essence of Moskari faithfully reproduces the sweet smell of the flower. This perfume, of incomparable finesse and slightly penetrating, charms and recreates the most delicate sense of smell.

• Special model 4 francs 45

 POUDRE DE RIZ AU MOSKARI

Adherent and invisible, this powder gives the face a perfectly natural velvety feel and gives it a delicious feeling of freshness, it brightens the complexion and protects the skin from any irritation.

• The box. , 2 francs 50

Special House items, recommended:

• Soap or milk of Thridace, the box of 3: 3 fr. 75
• Lait d'Iris de Florence, the bottle: 2 francs 25
• Rice powder Ophelia, Blanche, Rosee and Rachel, the box: 2 francs

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