Demi-Jour c1987

Demi-Jour by Houbigant: launched in 1987. The perfume was a resurrection of Houbigant's 1933 perfume of the same name. I am not sure if the notes are similar though.

Demi-Jour by Houbigant c1929

Demi-Jour by Houbigant, launched in 1929, evokes an air of sophistication, restraint, and the quiet elegance of the late 1920s. The name Demi-Jour is French, pronounced "deh-mee zhoor," and translates to "half-day" or "midday" in English. The name suggests a moment in time that straddles the shifting light of day—neither morning nor evening, but rather a gentle, transitional moment in between. This concept of the "half-day" encapsulates a fragrance that is both luminous and rich, offering an aromatic experience that is not too intense, but rather a balanced blend of light and depth. The idea of a fragrance that occupies a space between the brighter, fresher hours of the morning and the deeper, more sensual notes of the evening conjures images of a serene afternoon, where the sun is not too harsh but still casting its warm glow.

In the context of the late 1920s, Demi-Jour emerged at a time when society was caught in the exhilarating post-war embrace of modernity and excess. The Jazz Age was in full swing, and the world was celebrating the newfound freedom and social changes that came with the Roaring Twenties. Women’s fashion reflected this cultural shift—think of the flapper dress, bobbed hair, and bold jewelry. The mood was one of liberation, yet the elegance of the pre-war era was not entirely lost. Women were stepping out into the world with a sense of confidence and independence, and Demi-Jour served as an olfactory companion to this new, liberated woman. The fragrance offered a balance of warmth and refinement, not too overt or provocative, but undeniably complex and alluring. It was for women who were no longer bound by the conventions of the past, yet still clung to a sense of sophistication that reflected their modern sensibilities.

Created by Raymond Kling, Demi-Jour is classified as a warm leathery chypre fragrance, with a distinctive woody, mossy, and leafy base. It is a fragrance that plays with contrasts—soft yet bold, fresh yet deep. The leather gives it an assertive, almost masculine touch, while the chypre base, with its signature notes of oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum, grounds the scent in a natural, earthy warmth. The mossy undertones conjure the image of a forest glade, dappled with sunlight, the air heavy with the scent of leaves and damp earth. The woody notes lend a sense of stability and strength, while the leafy notes offer a lighter, green freshness, perfectly capturing the essence of the midday moment the name suggests.

Presence by Houbigant c1929

Présence by Houbigant: launched in 1929, created by Raymond Kling.

Lutece by Houbigant c1984

Lutece by Houbigant: launched in 1984. Apparently, "Lutece" was the old name for the city of Paris.

Quelques Violettes by Houbigant c1914

Quelques Violettes was originally launched way back in the late 1700s, when it was reportedly a favorite of Queen Marie-Antoinette. Houbigant was her personal perfumer. It was discontinued for decades before being reformulated and relaunched in 1914, but this too was discontinued in the 1960s.


"HOUBIGANT QUELQUES VIOLETTES —a delicate combination of violet scents — with the distinctively “woody" odor. A perfume of wistful charm and beauty that yields forth the inmost nature of the violet."

Essence Rare by Houbigant c1928

The launch of Essence Rare in 1928 marked an intriguing era in the world of perfumery. This period, known as the Roaring Twenties or the Jazz Age, was a time of significant cultural shifts, artistic experimentation, and social liberation.

In the aftermath of World War I, there was a palpable sense of euphoria and newfound freedom. This atmosphere of liberation influenced various aspects of society, including fashion, music, and, of course, fragrance.

Perfume became more than just a pleasant scent; it became a symbol of luxury, sophistication, and individual expression. Chanel No. 5, introduced by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1921, had already revolutionized the fragrance industry with its bold use of aldehydes and modern, abstract composition.

Houbigant's decision to launch Essence Rare as a competitor to Chanel No. 5 reflects the intense competition and innovation within the perfume market during this time. Aldehydic fragrances, characterized by their effervescent, sparkling quality, were particularly popular, embodying the spirit of the era with their glamorous and extravagant allure.

Paul Schving, the Roure-Bertrand chemist credited with creating Essence Rare, likely drew inspiration from the zeitgeist of the 1920s, blending traditional floral notes with the cutting-edge use of aldehydes to craft a fragrance that captured the essence of the era.

Overall, the launch of Essence Rare in 1928 occurred within a vibrant and dynamic period in history, characterized by rapid societal change, artistic innovation, and fierce competition in the world of perfumery.

Chantilly by Houbigant c1940

The launch of Chantilly by Houbigant in 1940 was a significant moment in the history of perfumery, occurring during a period marked by both tumultuous global events and cultural shifts. The choice to name the fragrance after Chantilly laces, renowned for their delicate beauty and intricate craftsmanship, reflects the broader artistic influences and inspirations of the time.

In the early 1940s, the world was in the midst of World War II, a time characterized by hardship, uncertainty, and a longing for beauty and elegance amidst the chaos. Perfume, as a form of olfactory art, offered a means of escape and expression during this tumultuous era. Fragrances like Chantilly aimed to transport wearers to a realm of luxury and sophistication, providing a reprieve from the harsh realities of wartime existence.

Chantilly lace, originating from the town of Chantilly in France, held a special allure due to its intricate designs and fine craftsmanship. These delicate laces were often associated with femininity, romance, and refinement, making them a fitting source of inspiration for a perfume. By evoking the imagery and sensory experience of Chantilly lace, the fragrance sought to capture the essence of elegance and allure, appealing to women who desired a touch of luxury and sophistication in their lives.