Contraste c1932

Contraste by Houbigant: launched in 1932.

Mon Boudoir by Houbigant c1918

Mon Boudoir by Houbigant: launched in 1918. Created by Robert Bienaime.

Indian Summer c1972

Indian Summer by Houbigant: launched in 1972. The fragrance was available in cologne and dusting powder.


It is classified as a green floriental fragrance for women with dry, herbal and spicy facets.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, narcissus, galbanum
• Middle notes: carnation, lavender, cinnamon, cloves
• Base notes: sandalwood, oak moss, vetiver, ambergris, patchouli, musk, vanilla

Discontinued, date unknown.

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Aperçu by Houbigant c1984

Aperçu by Houbigant: originally launched in 1984. The name means "insight" in French.

In 1984, the powers that be at Houbigant were looking for a name for a new fragrance, two names were chosen, Aperçu and Lutece. At the time, Aperçu was not available for registration and the selection of Lutece was finalized.  A lawsuit ensued as there was a restaurant named Lutece who objected to Houbigant's use of the word Lutece as a fragrance name. However, Houbigant did win the chance to use the name Lutece as a fragrance line. When Aperçu was finally available to be used by Houbigant, it was launched in 2000.

Iris des Champs c2014

Iris des Champs by Houbigant: launched in 2014.

Quelques Fleurs Royale by Houbigant c2004

Quelques Fleurs Royale by Houbigant: launched in 2004.

Orangers en Fleurs by Houbigant c2012

Orangers en Fleurs by Houbigant: launched in 2012.

Bain Nouveau by Houbigant c1966

Bain Nouveau by Houbigant: launched in 1966.

Quelques Roses by Houbigant c1997

Quelques Roses by Houbigant: launched in 1997 in association with Claire Fragrance (Parfums Claire).

Chypre c1917

Chypre by Houbigant: launched in 1916. This was part of the Floral Series.

Demi-Jour c1987

Demi-Jour by Houbigant: launched in 1987. The perfume was a resurrection of Houbigant's 1933 perfume of the same name. I am not sure if the notes are similar though.

Demi-Jour by Houbigant c1929

Demi-Jour by Houbigant, launched in 1929, evokes an air of sophistication, restraint, and the quiet elegance of the late 1920s. The name Demi-Jour is French, pronounced "deh-mee zhoor," and translates to "half-day" or "midday" in English. The name suggests a moment in time that straddles the shifting light of day—neither morning nor evening, but rather a gentle, transitional moment in between. This concept of the "half-day" encapsulates a fragrance that is both luminous and rich, offering an aromatic experience that is not too intense, but rather a balanced blend of light and depth. The idea of a fragrance that occupies a space between the brighter, fresher hours of the morning and the deeper, more sensual notes of the evening conjures images of a serene afternoon, where the sun is not too harsh but still casting its warm glow.

In the context of the late 1920s, Demi-Jour emerged at a time when society was caught in the exhilarating post-war embrace of modernity and excess. The Jazz Age was in full swing, and the world was celebrating the newfound freedom and social changes that came with the Roaring Twenties. Women’s fashion reflected this cultural shift—think of the flapper dress, bobbed hair, and bold jewelry. The mood was one of liberation, yet the elegance of the pre-war era was not entirely lost. Women were stepping out into the world with a sense of confidence and independence, and Demi-Jour served as an olfactory companion to this new, liberated woman. The fragrance offered a balance of warmth and refinement, not too overt or provocative, but undeniably complex and alluring. It was for women who were no longer bound by the conventions of the past, yet still clung to a sense of sophistication that reflected their modern sensibilities.

Created by Raymond Kling, Demi-Jour is classified as a warm leathery chypre fragrance, with a distinctive woody, mossy, and leafy base. It is a fragrance that plays with contrasts—soft yet bold, fresh yet deep. The leather gives it an assertive, almost masculine touch, while the chypre base, with its signature notes of oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum, grounds the scent in a natural, earthy warmth. The mossy undertones conjure the image of a forest glade, dappled with sunlight, the air heavy with the scent of leaves and damp earth. The woody notes lend a sense of stability and strength, while the leafy notes offer a lighter, green freshness, perfectly capturing the essence of the midday moment the name suggests.

Royal Houbigant by Houbigant c1904

Royal Houbigant by Houbigant: launched in 1904. It was available as perfume, powder and soap.

Honeysuckle by Houbigant c1938

Honeysuckle by Houbigant: launched in 1938.

Available in eau de toilette, eau florale and dusting powder.

So what does it smell like? It is a honeysuckle soliflore perfume.

Discontinued, probably sometime in the late 1940s-early 1950s.

photo by ebay seller damosel

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Fleur Bienaimee by Houbigant c1930

Fleur Bienaimee by Houbigant: launched in 1930, created by Robert Bienaime.

Gardenia Concentre by Houbigant c1935

Gardenia Concentre by Houbigant: launched in 1935. This name was also used by Cheramy, a division of Houbigant.

So what does it smell like? It was a strong, long lasting gardenia scent, with a slight mushroomy odor.

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1941.

This same bottle was used for Houbigant's Etude perfume from 1931. Photos by ebay seller vintageglass

The Baccarat crystal bottle rests on a silver plated base and is encased in a box of varnished wood.

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Both the glass stopper, with the engraved Houbigant "H",and the bottle, have an engraved matching number. 

The base of the bottle is also acid-etched "FRANCE".

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The bottle is in superb condition with virtually no flaws that I can find. 

It has a silver metal collar around the stopper opening. 

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The silver metal cap screws onto the collar, over the stopper.

A small paper flower label on one side of the bottle reads: GARDENIA concentre HOUBIGANT.

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The presentation base is metal, with wood on the bottom (& stamped MADE IN FRANCE)

The handmade wood cover is likewise in beautiful condition; highly varnished, with no marks.

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The bottle is 1 3/8" (3.6 cm) square & 3 5/8" (9.4 cm) tall.

La Rose France by Houbigant c1911

La Rose France by Houbigant: launched in 1911. Inspired by the romance of the rose, Madame Pompadour and the old French salons.

Presence by Houbigant c1929

Présence by Houbigant: launched in 1929, created by Raymond Kling.

Lutece by Houbigant c1984

Lutece by Houbigant: launched in 1984. Apparently, "Lutece" was the old name for the city of Paris.

Moskari by Houbigant c1887

The fragrance "Moskari" by Houbigant, launched around 1887, holds a significant place in the history of perfumery. This era marked the peak of Houbigant's influence, renowned for creating elegant and sophisticated scents that captivated the senses. "Moskari," with its alluring name, evokes a sense of exoticism and refinement that was characteristic of late 19th and early 20th-century perfumes. This period was a golden age for Houbigant, whose creations were synonymous with luxury and taste.

The name "Moskari" most likely refers to the grape hyacinth, known as muscari. The muscari flower, with its delicate, fragrant blooms, embodies the same elegance and charm that Houbigant sought to capture in their fragrances. The name suggests a connection to nature's beauty and the subtle, intricate scents that were highly prized in perfumery. Interestingly, a closer examination reveals a potential cultural mistranslation that adds another layer of depth to the fragrance's story.

In Hindi, "muscari" (मुस्कारि) translates to "smile," a meaning that resonates deeply with the romantic and emotive nature often associated with perfumes of this era. This interpretation suggests that "Moskari" was designed not just to evoke sensory delight but also to capture the essence of joy and allure. The notion of a smile aligns beautifully with the fragrance's purpose, aiming to bring happiness and a touch of enchantment to those who wear it. This blend of linguistic nuances and cultural interpretations enriches the narrative of "Moskari," highlighting its timeless appeal.

As the fragrance transitioned to be sold under the Houbigant-owned Cheramy label post-1923, it adapted to changing tastes while maintaining its legacy. This evolution underscores Houbigant's ability to blend tradition with innovation, ensuring that "Moskari," whether under its original name or as part of the Cheramy line, continued to enchant perfume aficionados for generations to come. The fragrance's enduring popularity is a testament to its captivating essence and the masterful craftsmanship of Houbigant, who succeeded in creating a scent that transcends time and cultural boundaries.

photo by Bennett