Demi-Jour by Houbigant c1929

Demi-Jour by Houbigant, launched in 1929, evokes an air of sophistication, restraint, and the quiet elegance of the late 1920s. The name Demi-Jour is French, pronounced "deh-mee zhoor," and translates to "half-day" or "midday" in English. The name suggests a moment in time that straddles the shifting light of day—neither morning nor evening, but rather a gentle, transitional moment in between. This concept of the "half-day" encapsulates a fragrance that is both luminous and rich, offering an aromatic experience that is not too intense, but rather a balanced blend of light and depth. The idea of a fragrance that occupies a space between the brighter, fresher hours of the morning and the deeper, more sensual notes of the evening conjures images of a serene afternoon, where the sun is not too harsh but still casting its warm glow.

In the context of the late 1920s, Demi-Jour emerged at a time when society was caught in the exhilarating post-war embrace of modernity and excess. The Jazz Age was in full swing, and the world was celebrating the newfound freedom and social changes that came with the Roaring Twenties. Women’s fashion reflected this cultural shift—think of the flapper dress, bobbed hair, and bold jewelry. The mood was one of liberation, yet the elegance of the pre-war era was not entirely lost. Women were stepping out into the world with a sense of confidence and independence, and Demi-Jour served as an olfactory companion to this new, liberated woman. The fragrance offered a balance of warmth and refinement, not too overt or provocative, but undeniably complex and alluring. It was for women who were no longer bound by the conventions of the past, yet still clung to a sense of sophistication that reflected their modern sensibilities.

Created by Raymond Kling, Demi-Jour is classified as a warm leathery chypre fragrance, with a distinctive woody, mossy, and leafy base. It is a fragrance that plays with contrasts—soft yet bold, fresh yet deep. The leather gives it an assertive, almost masculine touch, while the chypre base, with its signature notes of oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum, grounds the scent in a natural, earthy warmth. The mossy undertones conjure the image of a forest glade, dappled with sunlight, the air heavy with the scent of leaves and damp earth. The woody notes lend a sense of stability and strength, while the leafy notes offer a lighter, green freshness, perfectly capturing the essence of the midday moment the name suggests.

In comparison to other fragrances on the market during the 1920s, Demi-Jour was somewhat unique in its blend of chypre elements and leathery warmth. While the 1920s saw an explosion of floral, powdery, and fruity fragrances, Demi-Jour leaned into a more earthy, grounded approach, reflecting a more complex and mature side of femininity. Its leathery accents set it apart from the more delicate florals and aldehydic perfumes that dominated the era. The fragrance was distinctly modern, but in a more subtle, restrained way—one that would resonate with women who desired sophistication without relying on overtly sweet or floral notes. Demi-Jour was, in essence, a fragrance for women who were aware of the changing times and wanted a scent that mirrored their own sense of liberation and independence, but with a touch of the elegance and poise of the past.

As for how women of the time would have related to a perfume called Demi-Jour, it would have felt both familiar and daring. The concept of a fragrance named for the middle of the day, the cusp between two worlds, would have resonated with women navigating the delicate balance between old and new social roles. The scent itself, with its chypre composition and leathery depth, would have appealed to those seeking a fragrance that mirrored their own evolving identities—sophisticated, modern, and confident, yet deeply rooted in tradition. In a world still reeling from the impact of World War I and moving toward an uncertain future, Demi-Jour embodied the poised calm of women who were ready to embrace both the present and the future with grace.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a warm leathery chypre fragrance for women with a woody-mossy-leafy base. Described as 

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, bitter orange, Italian petitgrain
• Middle notes: Grasse jasmine, Grasse rose, violet, Brazilian rosewood, honey, Zanzibar clove, Manila ylang ylang, Florentine iris
• Base notes: Bourbon vetiver, Russian leather, Mysore sandalwood, tonka bean, Indonesian  patchouli, French oakmoss, ambergris, Tonkin musk, cedar, Maltese labdanum, cypress, Siamese benzoin, Omani frankincense, opoponax, Canadian castoreum, musk ambrette

Rester Jeune, 1936:

"At Houbigant, Demi-Jour is their latest masterpiece. This exquisite fragrance captures the essence of day’s end in the boudoir of a beautiful woman, blending the finest feminine notes. It evokes the subtle scent of Russian leather from a handbag, the freshness of blooming flowers, the warmth of amber, and the elegance of chypre from perfumed lotions. As the scent unfolds, it reveals its richness and complexity. The bottle is sleek and flat with rounded corners, its surface gently iridescent. It comes encased in a box that mimics the shimmering texture of changing lamé silk, opening with two shutters to reveal an interior lined with delicate crepe de Chine fabric."

Vogue, 1936:

"Demi-Jour by Houbigant captivates and lingers, as clear and alluring as the break of dawn. Mysterious, yet as seductive as a secret desire."

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Demi-Jour by Houbigant: Warm. A chypre note."

Riechstoffindustrie und Kosmetik (Volumes 12-13, 1937):

"Houbigant has also introduced a new creation under the name 'Demi-Jour.' One could call it a quintessential Houbigant perfume. It bears a faint resemblance to Houbigant's earlier creation, Bois Dormant, though its sharpness has here softened into a floral airiness. However, the base of both creations has remained the same: a certain cold, woody note. It is the magic of contrasts—floral and cold, light and dark—that this perfume Demi-Jour captures once again. Its name, meaning 'half-light,' 'half-day,' or 'twilight,' is thus entirely justified."

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Demi-Jour by Houbigant is revealed in the soft glow of a boudoir, where the scent of aged books, rich morocco leather, and violet or rosewood furniture create a fragrant backdrop. An unexpected charm follows—a subtle fruity note that deepens the sense of intimacy, like a whispered secret shared over a quiet tea for two, accompanied by the haze of honey-colored cigarette smoke."

The New Yorker, Volume 15, 1939:

"Houbigant’s perfume Demi-Jour is a weird one, to be sure. On most skins it is highly sensuous and inviting, but on some it emerges as a light, refreshing scent. Either way, it is a beauty.  Popular in Europe, it has only presently been brought here, and is to be found on the counters of Saks-Fifth Avenue, Altman and Lord & Taylor."

Harper's Bazaar, 1939:

"Demi Jour," the name of Houbigant's newest perfume, means "Twilight." The delicate scent is strangely haunting once you've used it. The large size, $18.50."

The New Yorker, 1939:

"Houbigant: Demi Jour, the latest, is such a warm, subtle perfume that people might even think it was a part of you."

Esquire, 1939:

"Houbigant's versatile Demi- Jour, a subtly defined, distinctive scent, combining dignity and elegance for town. Grenoville's frankly sexy, exotic Piege for the "oomph" girl of 1939."

Fodor's France, 1951:

"Houbigant, 19, Faubourg Saint-Honore. "Chantilly" — delicate, well-liked by active young women ; "Demi- jour" — tea-for-two sort of perfume ; "Fougere Royale" —for men ; "Presence" — velvety, lasting ; "Quelques Fleurs" — fresh, flowery."

La vie parisienne sous l'occupation, 1940-1944, 1971:

"...while Houbigant creates five new cocktails of precious essences: heady with 'Présence,' honeyed with 'Transparence,' sensual with 'Contraste,' supported by 'Demi-Jour,' and spring-like with 'Floraison.'"

Scent Profile:

As the perfume first unfurls, you are immediately enveloped in the sparkling freshness of Calabrian bergamot. This particular bergamot, hailing from the sun-kissed Italian region of Calabria, offers a brighter, sharper zest compared to other varieties. Its citrusy essence radiates with a lively tang, like a burst of sunshine in the early morning. Next, Sicilian lemon joins the orchestra, with its bright, vibrant acidity cutting through the air like a crisp breeze on a warm day. The sour-sweet essence is sharp, almost mouth-watering, as though the lemon peel was freshly twisted above a glass. The bitter orange—also Italian—provides a more complex, slightly astringent depth that contrasts with the lively lemon. It carries an aromatic bitterness, tinged with hints of green foliage and sun-drenched earth, providing an undertone of richness that balances the initial sharpness.

Italian petitgrain enters softly next, with its fresh and slightly herbaceous note, which recalls the scent of freshly crushed leaves on a hot summer day. Derived from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, petitgrain brings a subtle green note, adding a crisp and almost sparkling character that lifts the opening of the fragrance into a refreshing, slightly herbal atmosphere.

As the fragrance continues to evolve, Grasse jasmine takes center stage, unfolding its warm, creamy floral nature. This jasmine, grown in the legendary fields of Grasse, France, is one of the finest in the world, offering an intoxicating blend of sweet, floral richness with a honeyed depth. Its beauty is heady and voluptuous, wrapping around you like an embrace that lingers on your skin. The Grasse rose follows, its soft, delicate petals providing an air of timeless elegance. With its sweet, slightly powdery scent, it recalls the luxury of a fresh bouquet, imbued with a soft sense of romance. Violet adds a powdery floral sweetness, its scent reminiscent of childhood memories—light, innocent, and effortlessly charming.

Brazilian rosewood, with its slightly woody and resinous undertones, offers a warm richness that deepens the floral heart, making the fragrance feel both smooth and mysterious. The honey note brings an unexpected sweetness, adding an almost edible quality, as if you are surrounded by the warmth of golden nectar. Zanzibar clove adds an intriguing spiciness, its sharp, aromatic quality balanced by the smoothness of honey, evoking the distant allure of faraway lands where the clove is harvested with precision. Manila ylang ylang, soft and creamy, introduces a touch of tropical sweetness, blending effortlessly with the florals to enhance the fragrance’s sensuality. Lastly, Florentine iris—world-renowned for its delicate, powdery richness—unfolds with a soft, luxurious powderiness, recalling the timelessness of silk and velvet, giving a refined depth to the heart.

As the fragrance settles, the base emerges with the earthy, smoky depth of Bourbon vetiver, which adds a sharp, grassy edge, like the scent of damp earth after a rainstorm. This particular vetiver, from the lush island of Réunion, is prized for its complex, woody characteristics—darker, more grounded than others, yet smooth with a touch of sweetness that lingers softly in the background. Russian leather—rich, smoky, and dense—wraps around you with the warmth of a well-worn, aged leather glove. This leather note carries a certain opulence, with a touch of tobacco, musk, and spices, recalling the noble craftsmanship of Russia’s finest tanners. Mysore sandalwood, from India, adds an opulent, creamy smoothness that offers depth and softness. This sandalwood is the epitome of luxury—rich and velvety with a soft, woody, almost milky scent that lingers long after the others have faded.

The addition of tonka bean brings a subtle sweetness to the base with its warm, almost vanilla-like richness, giving the fragrance a sensual and comforting feel. Indonesian patchouli lends its signature earthy, green spiciness, adding an exotic, herbal quality that gives the perfume an underlying complexity. French oakmoss—renowned for its rich, damp, forest-floor character—anchors the scent with its mossy, woody, and slightly leathery note, grounding the perfume in a way that feels both natural and mysterious. Ambergris, harvested from the deep oceans, brings a rich, salty warmth with its musky-sweet scent. It evokes a sense of the wild, untamed, offering a touch of maritime allure that lingers.

Tonkin musk brings an animalic, deep warmth that softens the overall composition, while cedar adds a sharp, woody note, evoking the scent of freshly cut wood in the crisp, early morning air. Maltese labdanum adds a resinous, amber-like sweetness, its warmth both sensual and elusive. Cypress brings an earthy, woody quality, reminiscent of a walk through a shaded forest, adding a bit of resinous sharpness to the otherwise smooth base. Siamese benzoin offers a creamy, balsamic sweetness, wrapping the fragrance in a soft, vanilla-like warmth. Omani frankincense, with its rich, smoky, incense-like quality, imparts a sacred depth, enhancing the fragrance’s mystique and elevating the warmth of the base. Opoponax contributes its rich, balsamic, slightly sweet resin, adding an exotic, earthy touch that deepens the scent. Finally, Canadian castoreum rounds out the composition with its leathery, musky intensity, giving the fragrance a base that is both animalic and warm, rich with sensual complexity.

Each ingredient in Demi-Jour builds upon the last, creating a fragrance that is warm, leathery, and intensely complex—a luxurious blend of florals and earthiness that reflects a refined, sophisticated elegance, perfectly suited for a woman who desires a scent as multifaceted and timeless as herself.

Fodors from 1953 describes Demi-Jour as a "tea-for-two sort of perfume." The expression "a tea-for-two sort of perfume" evokes an intimate, cozy, and personal feeling. It suggests a fragrance that is delicate, soft, and unobtrusive—perfect for close moments shared between two people. The phrase implies a sense of warmth, romance, or quiet intimacy, much like the act of sharing a pot of tea in a private setting, away from the distractions of the world.

Such a perfume would likely have notes that are comforting, inviting, and subtly elegant, rather than bold or overpowering. It might include elements like soft florals, warm amber, creamy woods, or delicate spices—scents that envelop without overwhelming, creating an atmosphere of closeness and connection.

 

Bottles:

Demi-Jour was presented in an array of stunning flacons that exuded elegance and sophistication, embodying the luxurious artistry of its time. The primary presentation featured two sizes of iridescent amber glass bottles. These sleek, flat flacons with softly rounded corners radiated a subtle glow as the light danced across their iridescent surfaces, creating an ever-changing play of colors that seemed to shift like a living flame. The amber hue added warmth and depth to the design, perfectly complementing the fragrance’s warm, leathery chypre character. Each bottle was fitted with a matching glass stopper, disk-shaped and flat, which seamlessly integrated with the bottle’s design, enhancing its minimalist, modern elegance.

For practicality and portability, Demi-Jour was also offered in a smaller, disk-shaped purse flacon. Designed for a woman on the go, this compact bottle retained the iridescent amber finish, encapsulating the same sophisticated allure in a more diminutive form. It was housed in a sleek black satin pouch, which not only protected the flacon but also added an extra layer of refinement and luxury. The soft sheen of the satin pouch provided a tactile contrast to the glowing amber glass, elevating the experience of carrying the fragrance.

The packaging for Demi-Jour was equally as impressive as the bottles themselves. Each flacon was encased in a box that mimicked the shimmering texture of brown moiré lamé silk. The surface of the box sparkled and shifted, reminiscent of the fabric’s luxurious finish, and its rich, brown hue perfectly echoed the warmth of the amber glass within. The box opened with two delicate shutters, revealing an interior lined with pale yellow crepe de Chine fabric. The fabric, soft and silky to the touch, added a sense of intimacy and indulgence, as though the fragrance was a precious jewel cradled in a treasure chest. The thoughtful design and attention to detail made Demi-Jour’s presentation a celebration of refined elegance, perfectly capturing the spirit of the perfume it housed.

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 44, 1939:

"HOUBIGANT Houbigant makes a selective American introduction of their exquisite Parfum Demi-Jour, "Twilight," to fit the fashion lead of today. "Prettiness" is the vogue and Demi-Jour personifies it. Its presentation is in the most appealing feminine style. The brown moire coffret with light yellow crepe lining makes an attractive setting for the stunning iridescent flacon."

Town & Country, 1939:

"Houbigant's Demi-Jour Perfume. Straight from France, it's new, romantic, individual - and available in a limited quantity only."

Esquire, 1954:

"Houbigant's Demi-Jour perfume, imported from France, in brown and gold fabric-covered box, $25 for one and two-thirds ozs."

The bottle was also available in colorless glass, without the iridescent finish.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1929, Demi-Jour by Houbigant emerged as a sophisticated creation that epitomized the elegance and artistry of interwar perfumery. Its introduction marked an era of innovation and refinement, where Houbigant sought to offer a fragrance that balanced modernity with timeless appeal. The name Demi-Jour—French for "half-light" or "twilight"—perfectly captured the perfume's essence, evoking a sense of subtle transition and nuanced beauty, much like the fleeting moments between day and night.

The fragrance was celebrated for its ability to weave contrasting elements—floral softness and woody coldness, light and shadow—into a harmonious composition. Its warm leathery chypre profile with a woody, mossy, and leafy base provided depth and complexity, while its exquisite floral and resinous notes added a touch of mystery and allure. Demi-Jour was a fragrance that resonated with women who sought something more than the predictable, embracing a perfume that spoke of elegance and intrigue.

Despite its initial success, the exact date of its discontinuation remains unclear, leaving the perfume's departure shrouded in mystery. However, records indicate that Demi-Jour was still available for purchase as late as 1956, a testament to its enduring appeal and the loyalty of its admirers. Whether it lingered on store shelves or was lovingly preserved in private collections, Demi-Jour remained a cherished reminder of a bygone era, when perfumery was an art form designed to enchant the senses and stir the imagination.