Demi-Jour c1929

Demi-Jour by Houbigant: launched in 1929. Created by Raymond Kling.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a warm leathery chypre fragrance for women with a woody-mossy-leafy base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, fruit note
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, violet, rosewood, honey
• Base notes: vetiver, Russian leather, sandalwood, tonka, patchouli, oak moss, ambergris, musk, cedar, labdanum

Rester Jeune, 1936:

"At Houbigant, it's Demi-Jour, the latest. This exquisite creation, which evokes the end of the day in the boudoir of a pretty woman, combines all the feminine scents par excellence: Russian leather from the handbag, fresh flowers, amber and chypre from the perfumed lotions. The aroma develops and changes: very rich, very complex. The flat bottle, rounded at the corners, is slightly iridescent; it is presented in a box imitating, to be mistaken, a changing lamé silk, opening by two shutters on an interior captioned with crepe de Chine."

Vogue, 1936:

"Demi-Jour de Houbigant, he attaches and retains. Clear as a cleavage in the night. Mysterious as pleasure."

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Demi-Jour by Houbigant: Warm. A chypre note."

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Demi-Jour by Houbigant: It is exhaled in the half-light of a boudoir where old books, precious morocco leather, violet or rosewood furniture create a sort of fragrant setting. Then comes the unexpected charm with an almost fruity note that adds to the intimacy of a confidence, of a 'tea for two' in the smoke of honey-colored cigarettes."

The New Yorker, Volume 15, 1939:

"Houbigant’s perfume Demi-Jour is a weird one, to be sure. On most skins it is highly sensuous and inviting, but on some it emerges as a light, refreshing scent. Either way, it is a beauty.  Popular in Europe, it has only  presently been brought here, and is to be found on the counters of Saks-Fifth Avenue, Altman and Lord & Taylor."

Harper's Bazaar, 1939:

""Demi Jour," the name of Houbigant's newest perfume, means "Twilight." The delicate scent is strangely haunting once you've used it. The large size, $18.50."

The New Yorker, 1939:

"Houbigant: Demi Jour, the latest, is such a warm, subtle perfume that people might even think it was a part of you."

Esquire, 1939:

"Houbigant's versatile Demi- Jour, a subtly defined, distinctive scent, combining dignity and elegance for town. Grenoville's frankly sexy, exotic Piege for the "oomph" girl of 1939. "

Fodor's France, 1951:

"Houbigant, 19, Faubourg Saint-Honore. "Chantilly" — delicate, well-liked by active young women ; "Demi- jour" — tea-for-two sort of perfume ; "Fougere Royale" —for men ; "Presence" — velvety, lasting ; "Quelques Fleurs" — fresh, flowery."

La vie parisienne sous l'occupation, 1940-1944, 1971:

"...tandis que Houbigant crée cinq nouveaux cocktails d'essences précieuses, capiteux avec 'Présence', miellé avec 'Transparence', sensuel avec 'Contraste' , soutenu avec 'Demi- jour' et printanier avec 'Floraison ."

Bottles:

Demi-Jour was housed in two different sized iridescent amber glass flacons, as well as a small disk shaped purse flacon which was housed in a black satin pouch.

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 44, 1939:

"HOUBIGANT Houbigant makes a selective American introduction of their exquisite Parfum Demi-Jour, "Twilight," to fit the fashion lead of today. "Prettiness" is the vogue and Demi-Jour personifies it. Its presentation is in the most appealing feminine style. The brown moire coffret with light yellow crepe lining makes an attractive setting for the stunning iridescent flacon."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1956.

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