Essence Rare by Houbigant c1928

The launch of Essence Rare in 1928 marked an intriguing era in the world of perfumery. This period, known as the Roaring Twenties or the Jazz Age, was a time of significant cultural shifts, artistic experimentation, and social liberation.

In the aftermath of World War I, there was a palpable sense of euphoria and newfound freedom. This atmosphere of liberation influenced various aspects of society, including fashion, music, and, of course, fragrance.

Perfume became more than just a pleasant scent; it became a symbol of luxury, sophistication, and individual expression. Chanel No. 5, introduced by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1921, had already revolutionized the fragrance industry with its bold use of aldehydes and modern, abstract composition.

Houbigant's decision to launch Essence Rare as a competitor to Chanel No. 5 reflects the intense competition and innovation within the perfume market during this time. Aldehydic fragrances, characterized by their effervescent, sparkling quality, were particularly popular, embodying the spirit of the era with their glamorous and extravagant allure.

Paul Schving, the Roure-Bertrand chemist credited with creating Essence Rare, likely drew inspiration from the zeitgeist of the 1920s, blending traditional floral notes with the cutting-edge use of aldehydes to craft a fragrance that captured the essence of the era.

Overall, the launch of Essence Rare in 1928 occurred within a vibrant and dynamic period in history, characterized by rapid societal change, artistic innovation, and fierce competition in the world of perfumery.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lily-of-the-valley
• Middle notes: geranium, rose, iris, jasmine
• Base notes: sandalwood, ambergris, vanilla, oakmoss, musk, tonka bean, vetiver, civet

Scent Profile:

Imagine stepping into a glamorous speakeasy, the air thick with anticipation and excitement. As you take a deep breath, the top notes of Essence Rare envelop you in a dazzling burst of aldehydes, sparkling like champagne bubbles. These aldehydes, reminiscent of the effervescent spirit of the Jazz Age, immediately captivate your senses with their lively and luxurious aroma.

Beneath the shimmering aldehydes, you detect the bright citrusy tang of bergamot, adding a refreshing twist to the fragrance. It's as if a slice of sunshine has been captured and infused into the scent, evoking the carefree exuberance of flappers dancing the night away.

Intertwined with the bergamot is the delicate floral charm of lily-of-the-valley. Its sweet, ethereal scent whispers of innocence and romance, reminiscent of the delicate bouquets adorning the lapels of stylish women in the Jazz Age.

Moving into the heart of the fragrance, you encounter a lush bouquet of flowers that embodies the epitome of femininity and elegance. The velvety richness of rose petals mingles with the spicy warmth of geranium, creating a symphony of floral notes that is both sophisticated and alluring.

Nestled within, jasmine blooms like a delicate white flower, releasing its intoxicating aroma into the air. Its heady, floral scent exudes a captivating sensuality, reminiscent of moonlit garden parties and whispered confessions. Jasmine adds a touch of exoticism to the composition, its floral richness intertwining with the velvety rose and spicy geranium. Its presence infuses Essence Rare with a subtle hint of mystery and allure, evoking the sultry charm of Jazz Age sirens and their bewitching allure.

As you inhale deeply, the jasmine note transports you to a moonlit garden, where the air is heavy with the scent of flowers and forbidden desires. Its floral sweetness lingers on your skin, leaving a trail of seduction in your wake. In Essence Rare, jasmine is not just a fragrance note; it's a symbol of timeless elegance and feminine allure, capturing the essence of the Jazz Age in every intoxicating whiff.

Iris lends a powdery softness to the composition, adding an air of refinement and grace. Its subtle, earthy aroma hints at the mystery and intrigue that lurk beneath the surface of the Jazz Age's glittering facade.

As the scent gradually settles, you are transported to a luxurious boudoir adorned with plush velvet and gilded mirrors. The base notes of Essence Rare unfurl like a sumptuous tapestry, revealing layers of opulence and sensuality.

Sandalwood and vanilla envelop you in a warm embrace, their creamy richness adding depth and complexity to the fragrance. Ambergris lends a subtle, animalic allure, evoking images of fur-clad socialites and clandestine rendezvous in dimly lit corners.

Oakmoss and vetiver impart a touch of earthiness and sophistication, grounding the fragrance with their mossy green accents. Musk and civet add a seductive undertone, lingering on the skin like a whispered promise of forbidden pleasures.

As the final note, tonka bean adds a hint of sweetness, leaving a lingering trail of decadence in your wake. Essence Rare is not just a fragrance; it's a sensory journey through the opulent world of the Jazz Age, where every scent tells a story of glamour, intrigue, and timeless allure.

Bottles:

Picture yourself in the opulent surroundings of a Jazz Age soirée, where the air is alive with the laughter of socialites and the melodies of jazz. In the midst of this glittering scene, Houbigant unveils its latest olfactory masterpiece, Essence Rare, in a display of unparalleled luxury and sophistication.

To encapsulate the essence of this exquisite fragrance, Houbigant spared no expense, commissioning Baccarat, renowned for its exquisite crystal craftsmanship, to create a vessel befitting its magnificence. The result is a flacon that transcends mere packaging to become a true objet d'art—a gem-like crystal masterpiece that dazzles the eye and delights the senses.

Each facet of the crystal flacon reflects the light like a precious gemstone, casting a radiant glow that captures the attention of all who behold it. Twenty polished facets adorn the bottle, each one meticulously crafted to perfection, symbolizing the meticulous attention to detail that defines the Jazz Age's pursuit of luxury and elegance.

At the heart of this masterpiece lies an inner glass stopper, a hidden treasure revealed only to those who dare to unlock the secrets within. Covered by a metal over cap, the stopper adds a touch of intrigue to the design, inviting exploration and discovery.

As you hold the bottle in your hand, you feel a sense of reverence for the craftsmanship and artistry that went into its creation. The base of the bottle bears the mark of its pedigree—"Essence Rare - Houbigant France - New York"—a testament to its prestigious origins and global appeal.

This flacon is more than just a vessel for perfume; it is a symbol of luxury, refinement, and timeless elegance. Like a precious jewel adorning the vanity of a Jazz Age beauty, it serves as a reminder of the era's unapologetic pursuit of beauty, indulgence, and the finer things in life. In Essence Rare, Houbigant has captured not only the essence of a fragrance but also the spirit of an era—an era defined by its unwavering commitment to luxury, sophistication, and extravagance.

Imagine unwrapping the Essence Rare perfume, an experience akin to uncovering a treasure hidden within a secret vault. As you lift the lid of the cube-shaped box, adorned in polychrome paper that hints at the vibrant hues of the Jazz Age, you're greeted by an air of anticipation and excitement.

Inside, the box is lined with plush royal blue velvet, reminiscent of the luxurious fabrics favored by the elite of the era. Nestled within this sumptuous lining lies the crown jewel—the Essence Rare bottle—resting in a golden foil-backed depression that cradles it with utmost care.

The box itself is a work of art, its drop-front design inviting you to reveal the hidden splendor within. Each facet of the crystal bottle catches the light, casting a kaleidoscope of colors that dance across the velvet lining. It's a sight to behold, a symphony of elegance and refinement that speaks to the sophistication of its owner.

The smallest bottle, standing at a diminutive 2.25 inches tall and holding a precious ounce of perfume, is a miniature marvel in its own right. Its gilded button stopper, adorned with a long glass dauber, exudes a sense of old-world charm and elegance. While lacking the inner glass stopper and gilded cover of its larger counterparts, this petite vessel is no less exquisite, embodying the essence of luxury in its compact form.

As you hold the bottle in your hand, you can't help but marvel at the attention to detail—the intricate craftsmanship, the lavish materials, the undeniable allure. Essence Rare is more than just a perfume; it's a work of art, a testament to the splendor and extravagance of the Jazz Age. And as you inhale its intoxicating aroma, you're transported to a bygone era of glamour and sophistication, where every scent tells a story of opulence and allure.

 

The bottle was available in four sizes and their original prices:

• Modele Original...........$25 (2 oz bottle stands 3.5" tall)
• Moyen Modele.............$45 (4 oz bottle)
• Grand Modele..............$75 (8 oz bottle stands 4" tall)
• Tres Grande Modele....$125 (16 oz bottle stands 6" tall)

Hearst's, 1935:

"ESSENCE RARE!... The essence of an essence, like a many-faceted jewel in a lovely setting. Price, $10 and up."

The Delineator, 1935:

"For those who like de luxe scents but cannot afford them there is a special package of Houbigant's "Essence Rare" in a diamond-shaped flacon."

The New Yorker, 1939:

"Houbigant: Demi Jour, the latest, is such a warm, subtle perfume that people might even think it was a part of your personality. Old favorites are done up in a new way: Essence Rare, for instance, appears in a cut-glass bottle (from $10)"

Drug Topics Redbook, 1941:

" Essence Rare Modele Reduit $10.00 to $80.00, Modele Original $27.50."

Fate of the Fragrance:

The discontinuation of Essence Rare around 1949 likely stemmed from a combination of factors, including shifts in consumer preferences, changes in fashion trends, and economic considerations. Despite its initial success and acclaim, fragrances, like any other consumer product, are subject to fluctuations in demand and market dynamics.

In the post-World War II period, there was a shift in societal values and aesthetic preferences. The austerity of wartime gave way to a desire for simplicity and practicality, reflected in both fashion and fragrance choices. Perfume trends evolved, moving away from the opulent, aldehydic floral compositions of the 1920s and 1930s towards lighter, more understated scents that suited the mood of the time.

Additionally, economic factors may have played a role in the discontinuation of Essence Rare. The aftermath of the war brought about economic challenges and restructuring in many industries, including the perfume industry. Companies may have needed to streamline their product offerings or focus on more profitable lines to adapt to changing market conditions.

While Essence Rare may have been discontinued for several decades, its legacy lives on in the annals of perfume history. Its creation and brief heyday during the Jazz Age remain a testament to the artistry and craftsmanship of perfumery, leaving an indelible mark on the olfactory landscape of its time.

Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 1976, it was reformulated with modern ingredients by Jean Claude Ellena and relaunched under the Houbigant name but in association with Mem. This was Houbigant's answer to the prominent chypres of the 1970s, such as YSL's Rive Gauche and Paco Rabanne's Calandre. To learn more click HERE.