Chantilly by Houbigant c1940

The launch of Chantilly by Houbigant in 1940 was a significant moment in the history of perfumery, occurring during a period marked by both tumultuous global events and cultural shifts. The choice to name the fragrance after Chantilly laces, renowned for their delicate beauty and intricate craftsmanship, reflects the broader artistic influences and inspirations of the time.

In the early 1940s, the world was in the midst of World War II, a time characterized by hardship, uncertainty, and a longing for beauty and elegance amidst the chaos. Perfume, as a form of olfactory art, offered a means of escape and expression during this tumultuous era. Fragrances like Chantilly aimed to transport wearers to a realm of luxury and sophistication, providing a reprieve from the harsh realities of wartime existence.

Chantilly lace, originating from the town of Chantilly in France, held a special allure due to its intricate designs and fine craftsmanship. These delicate laces were often associated with femininity, romance, and refinement, making them a fitting source of inspiration for a perfume. By evoking the imagery and sensory experience of Chantilly lace, the fragrance sought to capture the essence of elegance and allure, appealing to women who desired a touch of luxury and sophistication in their lives.

Marcel Billot, the perfumer behind Chantilly, would have drawn upon his expertise and creative vision to translate the essence of Chantilly lace into a captivating olfactory composition. He likely incorporated floral notes reminiscent of the fragrant blooms often depicted in Chantilly lace designs, as well as hints of sweetness and warmth to evoke the soft texture and intricate patterns of the lace.

Overall, the launch of Chantilly in 1940 represented a convergence of artistry, craftsmanship, and cultural influences during a pivotal moment in history. By paying homage to the timeless beauty of Chantilly lace, the fragrance captured the imagination of women seeking elegance and escapism amidst the challenges of wartime existence.

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? The original Chantilly is classified as a chypre (woody, mossy, spicy type). It starts with a fresh top, followed by a spicy floral heart layered over a sweet, balsamic and powdery base.

Composed of more than 50 ingredients from all parts of the world, Chantilly is a chypre perfume whose basic note comes from the bark of a tree on the island of Cyprus, which accounts for its mysterious, rather Oriental accent. Natural rose and precious jasmine give it femininity and a medley of spice adds zing. Warm peonies, cloves, sweet peas and wisteria supported by a very slightly musky chypre, and dusted with a touch of iris. Laden with such fixatives as oakmoss, musk and ambergris, Chantilly is an exceptionally lasting fragrance.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, neroli, orange blossom, peony, fruit note and spices
• Middle notes: orris, rose, clove, ylang ylang, carnation, heliotrope, sweet pea, wallflower, wisteria and jasmine
• Base notes: leather, tonka bean, Indian sandalwood, musk, incense, benzoin, vetiver, French oak moss, patchouli, vanilla and amber

Scent Profile:

Close your eyes and imagine stepping into a garden adorned with the most exquisite flowers, their petals brushing against the delicate intricacies of Chantilly lace. As you take a deep breath, the fragrance unfolds like a love story, each note revealing a chapter of romance and allure.

At the outset, the top notes of Chantilly transport you to sun-drenched citrus groves, where the bright and uplifting essence of bergamot and lemon fills the air. Delicate whispers of neroli and orange blossom float on the breeze, their sweet fragrance mingling with the softness of peony blooms and the tantalizing allure of exotic spices.

Moving to the heart of the fragrance, Chantilly reveals its floral symphony, where the elegant scent of rose reigns supreme, evoking timeless elegance and passion. Spicy accents of clove and carnation ignite the senses, while ylang ylang and heliotrope add an exotic and sensual touch. Like a tapestry of love, sweet pea, wallflower, wisteria, and jasmine intertwine, each note adding depth and complexity to the fragrance.

As the scent settles, the base notes of Chantilly cast a lingering spell of warmth and sensuality. Leather and tonka bean create a rich and comforting embrace, while Indian sandalwood and musk envelop the senses in a veil of seduction. The mystical allure of incense and benzoin mingle with earthy vetiver and moss, while patchouli, vanilla, and amber leave a lingering trail of desire in their wake.

With each inhale, Chantilly tells a tale of passion and enchantment, its scent a timeless reminder of love's enduring allure and the delicate beauty of Chantilly lace.

Combat, 1954:

"Eau de Chantilly d'Houbigant" It's at caillettes evolving, in long lace dresses, by paths incensed with heliotropes and bordered by flowerbeds where sweet peas, suave peonies and the naive rosettes of wallflowers pass by, in a park haunted by invisible violins, under the spangled canopy of the night sky, what would suit best is this aroma powdered with iris and delicate chypre. Summer perfume refreshed by its eau de cologne wetting, it would be that of 'La Finette' if Watteau's canvases had a smell."

Combat, 1955:

"Chantilly (perfumed cologne) by Houbigant. A slightly musky chypre, powdered with a touch of iris, intensifies the subtly measured exhalations of peonies, sweet peas and wallflowers, with a tender hint of wisteria, for a young woman in a flowered dress, having dinner at the Chantilly weighing hall, in the crumpled evening of spring in Ile-de-France."

 

Product Line:

The availability of Chantilly in various forms reflects the comprehensive approach of Houbigant in catering to diverse consumer preferences and usage occasions. Each product in the Chantilly product line offers a unique sensory experience, allowing individuals to enjoy the fragrance in different ways and incorporate it into their daily routines.

• Parfum: The most concentrated form of fragrance, offering a luxurious and long-lasting scent experience ideal for special occasions or evening wear.

• Eau de Toilette: A lighter concentration of fragrance compared to parfum, suitable for everyday wear and providing a refreshing burst of scent.

• Eau de Cologne: A lighter and more invigorating version of the fragrance, often favored for daytime use or warmer weather due to its refreshing qualities.

• Liquid Skin Sachet: A unique and versatile format designed to be applied directly to the skin, offering a subtle and intimate scent experience.

• Dusting Powder: A fragranced powder designed to be applied to the body, providing a silky smooth texture while leaving a delicate veil of scent on the skin.

• Face Powder: Infused with the Chantilly fragrance, this product offers a luxurious finishing touch to makeup routines, imparting a subtle scent while mattifying the complexion.

• Bath Softener: A pampering addition to bath time, infusing the water with the enchanting scent of Chantilly for a truly indulgent bathing experience.

• Bath Tablets: Effervescent tablets designed to dissolve in the bath, releasing the fragrance of Chantilly and creating a relaxing and aromatic ambiance.

• Talcum Powder: A classic product infused with the Chantilly fragrance, offering a soft and velvety texture while imparting a subtle scent to the skin.

• Stick Perfume: A convenient and portable format for on-the-go application, allowing individuals to enjoy the fragrance of Chantilly anytime, anywhere.

LIFE, 1955:

"Chantilly Eau de Toilette with silk net atomizer in glamorous "Giftorama.". $5.00 Chantilly "Giftorama" with Liquid Skin Sachet and Eau de Toilette. $3.50 Chantilly Perfume in magnificent "Giftorama" setting. $5.00."

By offering Chantilly in such a diverse range of products, Houbigant ensured that consumers could incorporate the fragrance into every aspect of their beauty and grooming routines, from perfuming the skin to enhancing bath time rituals. This comprehensive product line catered to varying preferences and usage occasions, allowing individuals to experience the timeless allure of Chantilly in a manner that suited their lifestyle and needs.

Vintage Chantilly Bottles & Products:

The 1950 ad below featuring the original Parfum flacon of Chantilly offers a glimpse into the timeless elegance and sophistication of its packaging. The bottle, crafted with exquisite attention to detail, embodies the essence of luxury and allure.

The Parfum flacon, as depicted in the ad, is a masterpiece of design, with its sleek and refined silhouette exuding a sense of opulence. The disk-shaped glass stopper adds a touch of whimsy and charm, reminiscent of a delicate jewel adorning a treasure trove of fragrance.

The overall aesthetic of the bottle perfectly complements the romantic and timeless appeal of Chantilly, evoking images of vintage glamour and sophistication. As the centerpiece of any dressing table or vanity, the Parfum flacon serves as a testament to the enduring allure of this beloved fragrance.

With its elegant design and exquisite craftsmanship, the original Parfum flacon of Chantilly captures the essence of luxury and romance, inviting individuals to indulge in a sensorial journey of enchantment and elegance.

Other Parfum bottles were adopted over the years including the amphora shaped flacon shown below. The amphora shape was first used in 1960 and continued to be used into the 1980s. It was also used for the Eau de Toilettes and Skin Sachets. This bottle was available in four sizes:

• 1 oz
• 1/2 oz
• 1/4 oz
• Miniature

Parfum de Toilette and Eau de Toilette:

Chantilly was presented in various bottles for their Eau de Toilettes and Parfum de Toilettes (Essence de Chantilly). The Parfum de Toilette was a concentration equal to today's Eau de Parfums, stronger than Eau de Toilette but weaker than Parfum. It was introduced in 1968. The shape of the bottle reflected a new packaging style that Houbigant introduced in 1968 expressly for the Chantilly line. Houbigant was looking back into its early history as a perfumer to the French court. The sun-shaped design was a lovely tribute to Louis IV, known as the “Sun King.” The presentation was still in use in 1975.

Colognes:

Dusting Powders:

Chantilly Dusting Powder was presented in various plastic boxes over the years, these usually were complete with a woolen powder puff.

Solid Perfumes:

In 1970 a trio of Chantilly based solid perfume compacts was released. These are the "Golden Gator", "Balle d'Or" and the "Imperial Jewel."

Limited Editions:

For Christmas 1969, the limited edition "Chantilly Collection Royale" line of luxury bottles and packaging was introduced to elevate the status of Chantilly perfume. It was dedicated to Louis and Marie Antoinette and was meant to recapture Houbigant's former glory by using historical bottles such as the Baccarat crystal one used for Parfum d'Argeville (Le Flacon Louis XVI) and the multifaceted one originally used for Essence Rare (Le Flacon de Versailles) plus a gilded powder box called "Le Boite d'Or Heritage Dusting Powder" as shown in the advertisement above. Reflecting the 18th century of love of elegance, these Chantilly delights are encased in amber toned coffrets with the posh look of the softest velvet. Old stock of this collection was still sold in 1974.

• 6.5 oz Le Flacon Louis XVI Eau de Parfum retailed for $20.00 and features the scene of two lovers in a garden, delicately etched in gold,  the flacon is topped by a gold sphere. How to tell this from the more expensive Baccarat crystal version? The Chantilly bottle has plastic on the end of the stopper and is made up of molded glass which is decorated with silk screened decoration, bottle made in France by Pochet et du Courval, bottle stands 7.75" tall. This version is molded with "Bottle Made in France" on the base. The original Baccarat bottle is made up of lead crystal with hand stenciled gild decor, and features a ground glass stopper.
• 4 oz Le Flacon de Versailles Eau de Parfum retailed for $15.00 is a multifaceted glass bottle marked Bottle Made in Japan on the base. The screw cap has a crown image on the top. The original Essence Rare bottle was cut crystal, by Baccarat and has a inner glass stopper and a fluted gilt brass overcap.
• Le Boite d'Or Heritage Dusting Powder retailed for $7.50, this gold tone box contains super soothing powder to apply with the softest of velour puffs.

In 1971, a collection of miniature bottles known as "The Magnificent Four" was released and included tiny bottles of the Flacon de Versailles and the Flacon Louis XVI for Chantilly, and two bottles for Quelques Fleurs.

• A small 0.13 oz size of Chantilly Parfum was also available in the Flacon de Versailles shape
• A small 0.13 oz size of Chantilly Parfum was also available in the Flacon Louis XVI shape

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1989, Parfums Parquet released Chantilly under their own name. 

Long and complicated ownership, Houbigant filed for bankruptcy in 1993, was acquired (along with Dana) by Renaissance Cosmetics in 1994. Renaissance filed for Chapter 11 in 1999; its brands were acquired by New Dana Perfumes, later renamed Dana Classic Fragrances.

During the years of 1994-96, Chantilly was sold to Dana, but was able to retain the name of Houbigant. A lawsuit followed where Houbigant accused Dana of selling a watered down version of Chantilly. The lawsuit also accused Dana of selling the formula to unlicensed manufacturers.

 In 2000, a reformulated version of Chantilly came back on the market.  This newer version is classified as a refined, oriental fragrance, a soft amber parfum.

• Top notes:  fruity notes, neroli, bergamot and lemon
• Middle notes: spices, carnation, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and orange blossom
• Base notes: leather, tonka bean, musk, benzoin, oakmoss, vanilla and sandalwood

The Houbigant fragrances are now being manufactured under the original specifications by LOFT Fashion and Beauty Diffusion of Monaco and marketed in the United States by Exclusive Fragrances and Cosmetics.