Mes Delices by Houbigant: launched around 1904.
Showing posts with label houbigant. Show all posts
Showing posts with label houbigant. Show all posts
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
Lutece by Houbigant c1984
Lutece by Houbigant: launched in 1984. Apparently, "Lutece" was the old name for the city of Paris.
Tuesday, May 28, 2013
Moskari by Houbigant c1887
The fragrance "Moskari" by Houbigant, launched around 1887, holds a significant place in the history of perfumery. This era marked the peak of Houbigant's influence, renowned for creating elegant and sophisticated scents that captivated the senses. "Moskari," with its alluring name, evokes a sense of exoticism and refinement that was characteristic of late 19th and early 20th-century perfumes. This period was a golden age for Houbigant, whose creations were synonymous with luxury and taste.
The name "Moskari" most likely refers to the grape hyacinth, known as muscari. The muscari flower, with its delicate, fragrant blooms, embodies the same elegance and charm that Houbigant sought to capture in their fragrances. The name suggests a connection to nature's beauty and the subtle, intricate scents that were highly prized in perfumery. Interestingly, a closer examination reveals a potential cultural mistranslation that adds another layer of depth to the fragrance's story.
In Hindi, "muscari" (मुस्कारि) translates to "smile," a meaning that resonates deeply with the romantic and emotive nature often associated with perfumes of this era. This interpretation suggests that "Moskari" was designed not just to evoke sensory delight but also to capture the essence of joy and allure. The notion of a smile aligns beautifully with the fragrance's purpose, aiming to bring happiness and a touch of enchantment to those who wear it. This blend of linguistic nuances and cultural interpretations enriches the narrative of "Moskari," highlighting its timeless appeal.
As the fragrance transitioned to be sold under the Houbigant-owned Cheramy label post-1923, it adapted to changing tastes while maintaining its legacy. This evolution underscores Houbigant's ability to blend tradition with innovation, ensuring that "Moskari," whether under its original name or as part of the Cheramy line, continued to enchant perfume aficionados for generations to come. The fragrance's enduring popularity is a testament to its captivating essence and the masterful craftsmanship of Houbigant, who succeeded in creating a scent that transcends time and cultural boundaries.
photo by Bennett
Monday, May 27, 2013
Esprit de Noel by Houbigant c1968
Esprit de Noel by Houbigant: launched in 1968. “Esprit de Noel” means “spirit of Christmas.” It was available as eau de cologne and as a room essence. You would add a few drops to a light bulb to fragrance your room with a holiday air.
Quelques Violettes by Houbigant c1914
Quelques Violettes was originally launched way back in the late 1700s, when it was reportedly a favorite of Queen Marie-Antoinette. Houbigant was her personal perfumer. It was discontinued for decades before being reformulated and relaunched in 1914, but this too was discontinued in the 1960s.
"HOUBIGANT QUELQUES VIOLETTES —a delicate combination of violet scents — with the distinctively “woody" odor. A perfume of wistful charm and beauty that yields forth the inmost nature of the violet."
"HOUBIGANT QUELQUES VIOLETTES —a delicate combination of violet scents — with the distinctively “woody" odor. A perfume of wistful charm and beauty that yields forth the inmost nature of the violet."
Houbigant's Eau Florale Concentree c1937
Houbigant's Eau Florale Concentree was introduced in 1937. It was an extra concentrated toilet water, probably eau de parfum type strength. The scents were: Honeysuckle, Lemon Verbena, Quelques Fleurs, Gardenia, Sweet Pea, Magnolia. Wistaria, Quelques Violettes, Ideal, Presence, Cyclamen
Hearsts Internation, 1937:
The New Yorker, 1938:
Hearsts International, 1938:
Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1940:
"Eau Florale Concentree, the new version of perfume, is the first thing you put on after your bath — an exquisite underthing that clothes you in ... Priced for liberal daily use, yet available in the most prized Houbigant odeurs: CONCENTREE."
The New Yorker, 1938:
"EAU FLORALE CONCENTREE is a lovely new fashion in perfuming that you can easily afford. For Houbigant now presents its finest odeurs in this new version of perfume . . . for lavish, all-over-body use ... at ONE DOLLAR."
Hearsts International, 1938:
"Eau Florale -Concentree to be Applied Directly to the skin! You pat it on. Effective your bath, before you dress, and clothe yourself in subtle fragrance. It is light enough for lavish use from tip to toe, lingering enough to last from dawn to dark!"
Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1940:
"Houbigant adds to the increasing interest in romantic florals this year with a true-to-the-flower reproduction of Wistaria in Eau Florale Concentree. This is a light, exquisite fragrance."
Sunday, May 26, 2013
La Belle Saison by Houbigant c1924
La Belle Saison by Houbigant: launched in 1924, created by Robert Bienaime.
La Giroflee by Houbigant c1905
La Giroflée, introduced by Houbigant in 1905, draws its name from the French word "giroflée," referring to a clove-scented flower also known as the gillyflower, or wallflower. This term evokes a bygone era's appreciation for richly fragrant blooms and their intoxicating, spicy notes. The name “La Giroflée” conjures an image of a garden in full bloom, steeped in a heady, almost decadent aroma that is both nostalgic and timeless. The choice of the French language for the name itself lends an air of romance and sophistication, suggesting a delicate yet opulent floral essence.
To interpret “La Giroflée” in scent is to imagine the nuanced fragrance of the gillyflower—a flower that was beloved for its distinctive clove-like aroma. The essence of this flower is layered with the soft spice of cloves and a touch of sweet, earthy warmth that would be almost intoxicating in its familiarity. During the early 20th century, such a scent would likely have evoked memories of sun-warmed gardens or antique potpourri bowls, filled with dried petals and spices. Women of the time, who frequently associated fragrances with elegance and tradition, might have been drawn to this scent for its embodiment of both beauty and history. A perfume named La Giroflée would have spoken to the refined tastes of those who valued fragrance as a connection to nature and nostalgia, yet appreciated the luxury of a finely crafted scent.
The early 1900s was a period marked by a fascination with the exotic and complex floral compositions in perfumery, as many fragrances of that era leaned into rich, multifaceted floral bouquets. In this context, La Giroflée was both in keeping with and distinct from contemporary trends. While its central floral theme was indeed popular, Houbigant’s choice to emphasize the spicy clove character of the gillyflower provided a unique take on the genre. Its spicy notes would have been a subtle yet distinctive departure from the many lush floral scents on the market, making it appealing to those seeking a more sophisticated, lightly exotic fragrance.
At this time, perfumes commonly relied on natural extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures, as perfumers carefully blended these ingredients to craft rich, evocative scents. While synthetics were just beginning to gain prominence, traditional botanical ingredients remained highly valued, often grown in regions such as the French colonies, where climate and soil conditions nurtured high-quality blooms. The enduring appeal of gillyflower scents, combined with the evolving possibilities of perfumery, allowed Houbigant to craft La Giroflée as a timeless homage to floral fragrances with a distinctive, spicy allure that has lingered in memory for over a century.
Parfum d' Argeville by Houbigant c1913
Parfum d' Argeville by Houbigant: launched in 1913. Created by Paul Parquet.
Peau d'Espagne by Houbigant c1886
In 1886, when Houbigant launched "Peau d'Espagne," Europe was experiencing the tail end of the Victorian era, a period characterized by strict social norms, industrial progress, and cultural refinement. This era saw a fascination with exoticism and luxury, where the upper classes sought to distinguish themselves through refined tastes in fashion, art, and fragrance. Against this backdrop, Houbigant, a prestigious perfumery known for its opulent creations, chose to introduce "Peau d'Espagne" as a new addition to its repertoire.
The name "Peau d'Espagne" translates from French to "Spanish Leather." It derives its meaning from the luxurious leather goods imported from Spain, renowned across Europe for their quality and craftsmanship. The choice of this name for a perfume was deliberate; it aimed to evoke images of fine Spanish leather, known for its softness, richness, and exotic appeal. By associating the fragrance with Spanish leather, Houbigant sought to tap into the allure of luxury and sophistication that such goods represented to the elite of the late 19th century.
"Peau d'Espagne" would have been an appropriate name for a perfume in this era due to its evocative qualities. The term conjures images of sumptuous leather, treated with aromatic oils and resins to enhance its fragrance. Such associations appealed to those who valued craftsmanship, refinement, and the exoticism of imported goods. The perfume would have resonated particularly with affluent gentlemen and connoisseurs of luxury who appreciated fine materials and sought to embody a sense of elegance and refinement through their personal grooming and attire.
The word "Peau d'Espagne" evokes feelings of sophistication, luxury, and exoticism. It suggests the tactile sensation of touching soft, supple leather and inhaling its subtly infused fragrance. Images of Spanish craftsmen meticulously tanning and perfuming leather goods in sun-drenched workshops come to mind, blending Old World artisanal traditions with the cosmopolitan tastes of European high society.
Despite its centuries-old history in perfumery, "Peau d'Espagne" would not have been seen as old-fashioned in 1886. Instead, it would have been perceived as a contemporary expression of luxury and refinement, aligning perfectly with the cultural and aesthetic sensibilities of the late Victorian era. The fragrance catered to the desire for exclusivity and sophistication among the elite, offering a distinctive scent that complemented the lavish lifestyles and refined tastes prevalent during this period.
In summary, "Peau d'Espagne" by Houbigant, launched in 1886 and created by Paul Parquet as a perfume for men, epitomized the opulence and exotic allure that defined the late Victorian era. Its name and fragrance composition captured the essence of luxurious Spanish leather, appealing to those who sought to embody sophistication and refinement through their choice of scent. Far from being out of touch, "Peau d'Espagne" was a timeless expression of luxury and craftsmanship that resonated with the elite clientele of its time.
Saturday, May 25, 2013
Violette Houbigant by Houbigant c1907
Violette Houbigant by Houbigant: launched in the early 1800s. But was launched again in 1907.
Jasmin Floral by Houbigant c1918
Launched in 1918, Jasmin Floral by Houbigant was a celebration of one of the most beloved and evocative floral notes in perfumery: jasmine. The name "Jasmin Floral," derived from the French language, directly translates to "Jasmine Floral," elegantly hinting at the perfume’s primary inspiration. This name would have evoked visions of lush, blooming jasmine fields and soft summer evenings, conjuring an image of feminine grace and timeless beauty. The term Jasmin Floral suggests a scent that is both delicate and rich, embodying the timeless allure of jasmine—one that radiates warmth and opulence.
Jasmine has long been associated with romance and elegance. Known for its exotic, sweet, and almost animalic quality, the scent of jasmine has been a staple in perfumery since ancient times. By the early 20th century, it held an especially prominent place within the realm of feminine fragrances. For Houbigant, choosing the name "Jasmin Floral" would have immediately signaled to women of the period a sense of familiarity and sophistication, while also aligning with the trend of floral perfumes that dominated the fragrance landscape.
During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, jasmine was cultivated extensively in French colonies, particularly in North Africa, where the climate was ideal for this fragrant flower. By the time Jasmin Floral was launched, it was not uncommon for formulas in perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias to emphasize jasmine blends, reflecting the public’s enduring love for the flower. Houbigant’s rendition, however, would have distinguished itself by layering jasmine with other floral elements and perhaps a hint of animalics, as was fashionable at the time. This bouquet approach would lend Jasmin Floral a more nuanced, multi-dimensional character, setting it apart from simpler single-note florals.
L’Oeillet Du Roy by Houbigant c1906
Un Peu d'Ambre by Houbigant c1919
Un Peu d'Ambre by Houbigant: launched in 1919, created by Robert Bineaime.
Friday, May 24, 2013
Coeur de Jeannette by Houbigant c1899
Coeur de Jeannette by Houbigant: created by Paul Parquet in 1899. At the 1900 Paris Exhibition, Houbigant launched a special perfume, Coeur de Jeannette, in honor of the exhibition.
Bois Dormant by Houbigant c1925
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