Peau d'Espagne by Houbigant c1886

In 1886, when Houbigant launched "Peau d'Espagne," Europe was experiencing the tail end of the Victorian era, a period characterized by strict social norms, industrial progress, and cultural refinement. This era saw a fascination with exoticism and luxury, where the upper classes sought to distinguish themselves through refined tastes in fashion, art, and fragrance. Against this backdrop, Houbigant, a prestigious perfumery known for its opulent creations, chose to introduce "Peau d'Espagne" as a new addition to its repertoire.

The name "Peau d'Espagne" translates from French to "Spanish Leather." It derives its meaning from the luxurious leather goods imported from Spain, renowned across Europe for their quality and craftsmanship. The choice of this name for a perfume was deliberate; it aimed to evoke images of fine Spanish leather, known for its softness, richness, and exotic appeal. By associating the fragrance with Spanish leather, Houbigant sought to tap into the allure of luxury and sophistication that such goods represented to the elite of the late 19th century.

"Peau d'Espagne" would have been an appropriate name for a perfume in this era due to its evocative qualities. The term conjures images of sumptuous leather, treated with aromatic oils and resins to enhance its fragrance. Such associations appealed to those who valued craftsmanship, refinement, and the exoticism of imported goods. The perfume would have resonated particularly with affluent gentlemen and connoisseurs of luxury who appreciated fine materials and sought to embody a sense of elegance and refinement through their personal grooming and attire.

The word "Peau d'Espagne" evokes feelings of sophistication, luxury, and exoticism. It suggests the tactile sensation of touching soft, supple leather and inhaling its subtly infused fragrance. Images of Spanish craftsmen meticulously tanning and perfuming leather goods in sun-drenched workshops come to mind, blending Old World artisanal traditions with the cosmopolitan tastes of European high society.

Despite its centuries-old history in perfumery, "Peau d'Espagne" would not have been seen as old-fashioned in 1886. Instead, it would have been perceived as a contemporary expression of luxury and refinement, aligning perfectly with the cultural and aesthetic sensibilities of the late Victorian era. The fragrance catered to the desire for exclusivity and sophistication among the elite, offering a distinctive scent that complemented the lavish lifestyles and refined tastes prevalent during this period.

In summary, "Peau d'Espagne" by Houbigant, launched in 1886 and created by Paul Parquet as a perfume for men, epitomized the opulence and exotic allure that defined the late Victorian era. Its name and fragrance composition captured the essence of luxurious Spanish leather, appealing to those who sought to embody sophistication and refinement through their choice of scent. Far from being out of touch, "Peau d'Espagne" was a timeless expression of luxury and craftsmanship that resonated with the elite clientele of its time.

During the era of perfumed gloves, a time steeped in luxury and refinement, the use of sachets made from "Peau d'Espagne" or perfumed leather was a cherished practice. This tradition harkened back to a period when gloves were not only functional but also infused with delicate scents to enhance the wearer's allure. The concept of perfumed sachets for the writing desk was credited to Frangipani, who also pioneered the scented powder bearing his name. These sachets were crafted by soaking chamois skin in a blend of ottos, which are essential oils, infused with aromatic gum resins. This mixture was then combined with a plaster containing civet, a prized animal-derived musk. Despite their costliness—English perfumeries charged a shilling per square inch—the fragrance of these sachets was noted for its enduring quality, making them a luxurious addition to any setting.

For those unable to afford the exquisite sachets made from "Peau d'Espagne," a substitute could be fashioned by applying civet and musk, mixed with liquid gum, onto a card. While not identical in fragrance, this homemade version provided a semblance of the luxurious aroma associated with the original sachets. Moreover, in an era when luxury extended beyond personal attire, even precious stones were not exempt from the practice of perfuming. Fragrant cards were delicately placed beneath the tin foil encasing gemstones, imparting a subtle yet distinctive scent. Additionally, bookmarks were designed to emit pleasant odors, adding an olfactory dimension to reading.

Cassolettes, small ivory containers used to perfume handbags, were another testament to the artistry of perfumery during this period. These containers were filled with a paste made from gum tragacanth or gum acacia, blended with musk, ambergris, vanilla, rose oil, and orris powder. Such ingredients not only preserved but also enhanced the scents they contained, ensuring a lasting and aromatic experience. This attention to detail underscored the era's appreciation for fragrance as an integral part of personal and material adornment, reflecting an era where luxury was both seen and sensed.

Peau d'Espagne:

"Peau d'Espagne" by Houbigant, created by Paul Parquet in 1894 as a perfume for men, reflected the masculine tastes and preferences of its time. During the late 19th century, men's fragrances often emphasized bold, aromatic notes that projected strength, sophistication, and refinement.

Paul Parquet, known for his expertise in perfumery, crafted "Peau d'Espagne" to cater specifically to the discerning male clientele of the Belle Époque era. The fragrance would likely have featured a composition that blended robust leather accords with spices, resins, and possibly hints of citrus or florals to balance its intensity. Such a combination would have created a scent profile that exuded masculinity and elegance, aligning perfectly with the fashion and lifestyle of affluent men during that period.

In crafting "Peau d'Espagne," Parquet aimed to capture not only the luxurious essence of Spanish leather but also to enhance it with elements that would appeal to the refined tastes of the era's gentlemen. The result was a fragrance that offered sophistication and distinction, fitting seamlessly into the cultural milieu of the late 19th century.

As a perfume for men, "Peau d'Espagne" by Houbigant would have been a statement of masculine refinement, embodying the allure of exoticism and luxury that characterized the Belle Époque period. Its creation by Paul Parquet ensured that it met the high standards of craftsmanship and elegance expected by its discerning clientele.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral leather fragrance for men. Floral and musky. Peau d'Espagne is a man's perfume, neither sweet nor heavy, but positively masculine. 

• Top notes: neroli, bergamot, verbena, geranium
• Middle notes: rose, lavender, cloves, cinnamon, ylang ylang
• Base notes: leather, cedar, sandalwood, civet, musk, ambergris, oakmoss, balsam, vanilla, tonka, styrax, tobacco, vetiver

The peau d'Espagne, this old composition that's back in fashion under different names for the use of perfumes by men, owes its peculiar smell to jasmine combined with vetiver, ylang ylang and civet.

Life, 1912:

"Cœur de Jeannette is a subtle caress of tropical fragrance, most delicate and dainty. More pronounced is Houbigant's famous Ideal, a rich bouquet. Peau d'Espagne, is a man's perfume, positively masculine. Violette Houbigant is a reminiscence of shady woods a master achievement in the making of a violet odor. Houbigant brings to you the perfumed moonlight in his Jasmin; his La Rose France is an epitome of Pompadour and the salons of old France; Houbigant's Giroflee is a languorous dream; his Lilies of the Valley, Muguet, an exotic rapture; and his Carnation of the King, Oeillet du Roi, a royal duplicate of this exquisite flower; each one a revelation of unique fragrance and exquisitely good taste to its delighted recipient."

Scent Profile:

Peau d’Espagne by Houbigant opens with a blend of vibrant top notes that sets the stage for an olfactory journey rooted in both freshness and complexity. The first inhalation is a bright burst of neroli, exuding a crisp, almost green floral quality that feels instantly invigorating. Its citrusy nuance is complemented by the sharper zest of bergamot, which adds a brisk, refreshing energy, as though the first rays of sunlight have cut through a cool morning breeze. This is tempered by verbena, which introduces a subtle herbal, lemony softness, grounding the initial brightness. The geranium adds a touch of green earthiness with a whisper of floral spice, creating an initial impression that is both fresh and slightly bracing.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart notes emerge, weaving a floral tapestry laced with warmth and spice. The romantic aroma of rose is lush yet subdued, balanced by the aromatic complexity of lavender, which brings a soothing, clean quality to the heart of the fragrance. The spices then begin to unfurl, with cloves introducing a slightly sweet, spicy warmth that melds seamlessly with the earthy bite of cinnamon. These spices are accentuated by the exotic, creamy floral depth of ylang ylang, which adds a heady, almost tropical allure, deepening the fragrance into a rich, multi-layered experience that speaks of both sophistication and raw masculinity.

The base is where Peau d’Espagne reveals its true character, grounded in a robust leather accord that evokes a well-worn leather armchair or the soft, supple interior of a vintage car. The leather is smoky and earthy, complemented by the dry, resinous scent of cedar, which adds a slightly sharp edge. Sandalwood brings a creamy, woody smoothness, contrasting with the animalic undertones of civet and musk, which lend a primal, almost feral depth. Ambergris contributes a salty-sweet richness, while the mossy earthiness of oakmoss hints at the wild, untamed outdoors.

Further enriching the base is the warmth of balsam, which brings a subtly sweet, resinous quality, while the softness of vanilla and the powdery richness of tonka bean weave through, adding a velvety touch to the leather and woods. A hint of styrax adds a smoky, balsamic note, melding with the dark, rich scent of tobacco that suggests a lingering whiff of an old cigar room. Finally, vetiver adds a touch of dry, grassy earthiness, grounding the composition with a deep, rooty nuance that balances the richness and depth of the other notes.

Overall, Peau d’Espagne conjures images of old-world elegance and a rugged, timeless masculinity. This is a fragrance that tells a story of both sophistication and wildness, evoking the spirit of a man who is as comfortable in a tailored suit as he is exploring the outdoors, possessing a charisma that is both polished and undeniably raw.

Bottle:

c1900, photo by Octavian Coifan

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1934.