La Giroflée, introduced by Houbigant in 1905, draws its name from the French word "giroflée," referring to a clove-scented flower also known as the gillyflower, or wallflower. This term evokes a bygone era's appreciation for richly fragrant blooms and their intoxicating, spicy notes. The name “La Giroflée” conjures an image of a garden in full bloom, steeped in a heady, almost decadent aroma that is both nostalgic and timeless. The choice of the French language for the name itself lends an air of romance and sophistication, suggesting a delicate yet opulent floral essence.
To interpret “La Giroflée” in scent is to imagine the nuanced fragrance of the gillyflower—a flower that was beloved for its distinctive clove-like aroma. The essence of this flower is layered with the soft spice of cloves and a touch of sweet, earthy warmth that would be almost intoxicating in its familiarity. During the early 20th century, such a scent would likely have evoked memories of sun-warmed gardens or antique potpourri bowls, filled with dried petals and spices. Women of the time, who frequently associated fragrances with elegance and tradition, might have been drawn to this scent for its embodiment of both beauty and history. A perfume named La Giroflée would have spoken to the refined tastes of those who valued fragrance as a connection to nature and nostalgia, yet appreciated the luxury of a finely crafted scent.
The early 1900s was a period marked by a fascination with the exotic and complex floral compositions in perfumery, as many fragrances of that era leaned into rich, multifaceted floral bouquets. In this context, La Giroflée was both in keeping with and distinct from contemporary trends. While its central floral theme was indeed popular, Houbigant’s choice to emphasize the spicy clove character of the gillyflower provided a unique take on the genre. Its spicy notes would have been a subtle yet distinctive departure from the many lush floral scents on the market, making it appealing to those seeking a more sophisticated, lightly exotic fragrance.
At this time, perfumes commonly relied on natural extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures, as perfumers carefully blended these ingredients to craft rich, evocative scents. While synthetics were just beginning to gain prominence, traditional botanical ingredients remained highly valued, often grown in regions such as the French colonies, where climate and soil conditions nurtured high-quality blooms. The enduring appeal of gillyflower scents, combined with the evolving possibilities of perfumery, allowed Houbigant to craft La Giroflée as a timeless homage to floral fragrances with a distinctive, spicy allure that has lingered in memory for over a century.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: cassie,jonquil, rose geranium, pimento, neroli, petitgrain
- Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, tuberose, orris, cloves, cinnamon, ylang ylang
- Base notes: vanilla, tolu, styrax, musk, benzoin, patchouli, sandalwood, ambergris
Life, 1912:
"Cœur de Jeannette is a subtle caress of tropical fragrance, most delicate and dainty. More pronounced is Houbigant's famous Ideal, a rich bouquet. Peau d'Espagne, is a man's perfume, positively masculine. Violette Houbigant is a reminiscence of shady woods a master achievement in the making of a violet odor. Houbigant brings to you the perfumed moonlight in his Jasmin; his La Rose France is an epitome of Pompadour and the salons of old France; Houbigant's Giroflee is a languorous dream; his Lilies of the Valley, Muguet, an exotic rapture; and his Carnation of the King, Oeillet du Roi, a royal duplicate of this exquisite flower; each one a revelation of unique fragrance and exquisitely good taste to its delighted recipient."
Scent Profile:
As I encounter the opening notes of La Giroflée, the perfume immediately unveils its warm, spicy bouquet. A lively burst of cassie and jonquil brings a fresh, honeyed sweetness, both delicate and green. This floral start is swiftly deepened by the rosy, slightly minty aroma of rose geranium. There's a faintly peppery edge as pimento rises—a subtle spark that is further brightened by neroli’s radiant, citrus-floral touch. The petitgrain adds a crisp, leafy bitterness that beautifully contrasts with the warmth, grounding the effervescent top notes in an earthy embrace.
As the fragrance unfolds, it blooms into a heart rich with heady florals and spices. Orange blossom fills the air with its creamy, almost waxy sweetness, while the soft opulence of rose offers a lushness that’s both comforting and familiar. The intensity heightens as tuberose arrives, adding a creamy, almost narcotic depth. Orris root brings a cool, powdery elegance, softening the stronger floral notes and adding a luxurious feel. Now, cloves emerge with their spicy, almost smoky aroma, weaving seamlessly with cinnamon, which lends a warm, sweet-spicy quality that brings to mind spiced wine or holiday kitchens. The exotic ylang ylang finishes the heart, contributing a sweet, slightly banana-like richness that lingers with a velvety softness.
As the scent deepens further, it settles into a base of complex, resinous warmth. Vanilla is the first to greet, its creamy sweetness entwined with the balsamic richness of tolu, and the leathery, smokiness of styrax. A soft, animalic musk brings an alluring sensuality, while benzoin adds a soft, powdery warmth that feels like a cashmere wrap on the skin. Patchouli follows, earthy and grounding, with a dark, almost damp quality that contrasts beautifully with the smooth sandalwood—a creamy, slightly milky woodiness that soothes and stabilizes. Finally, a hint of ambergris lifts the base with its salty, marine undertone, casting an evocative, almost ethereal glow that hovers around the other notes, creating a soft and lingering finish that is both haunting and sophisticated.
The perfume sold for $5.00 in 1912. According to an inflation calculator, what cost $5.00 in 1912 would cost $160.87 in 2024.
Bottles:
La Giroflee was presented in a variety of flacons over the years.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1933.
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