Le Parfum Ideal by Houbigant c1896

In 1896, Houbigant's in-house perfumer, Paul Parquet, crafted Le Parfum Idéal, a fragrance that quietly entered the perfumery scene with its exquisite blend of notes. At the time, newspaper advertisements subtly introduced this olfactory creation to discerning consumers, hinting at its allure and sophistication. However, it wasn't until the grand stage of the 1900 World's Fair in Paris that Le Parfum Idéal truly made its debut amidst a wave of anticipation and acclaim.

The 1900 World's Fair marked a pivotal moment for Houbigant, where they unveiled not only Le Parfum Idéal but also another captivating fragrance, Coeur de Jeanette. Amidst the splendor of the fairgrounds, these perfumes captivated the public with their luxurious aromas and elegant presentations. Le Parfum Idéal, with its carefully balanced composition and timeless appeal, stood out as a testament to Houbigant's dedication to perfumery artistry.

Newspaper accounts from the period vividly recount the atmosphere of excitement surrounding these fragrances, describing how they captured the essence of Parisian elegance and became synonymous with the refined tastes of the Belle Époque. Le Parfum Idéal, in particular, garnered praise for its harmonious blend of floral, citrus, and woody notes, evoking a sense of sophistication and allure that resonated with the fashionable elite of the era.

As the fair drew to a close, Le Parfum Idéal had firmly established itself as a hallmark of Houbigant's commitment to excellence in perfumery, setting a standard that would endure throughout the decades, continuing to charm and inspire fragrance connoisseurs worldwide.

The iconic label adorning Le Parfum Idéal depicts a Gibson Girl delicately inhaling the fragrance of a flower, embodying the epitome of late 19th-century elegance and sophistication. Crafted from gilded foil and intricately embossed, the label exudes a sense of luxury and attention to detail, reflecting the perfume's status as a pinnacle of Houbigant's artistry. This ornate design not only enhances the visual appeal of the bottle but also serves as a visual testament to the perfume's allure, capturing the essence of its floral and aromatic notes in a captivating and timeless manner. As a symbol of refined taste and aesthetic refinement, the label of Le Parfum Idéal continues to evoke the elegance and charm of its era, resonating with collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate the beauty of both fragrance and design.

Fragrance Composition:

Ideal was the first floral composite bouquet perfume, containing synthetic compounds of coumarin and salicylates. It’s originality made it a great success for many years. It was considered a chic and vibrant perfume with notes of rose and ylang ylang.

So what did it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: citrus, carnation
• Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, ylang ylang, orange blossom, jasmine
• Base notes: vanilla, tonka bean, patchouli, ambergris, musk, benzoin, sandalwood, oakmoss

Life, 1912:

"Cœur de Jeannette is a subtle caress of tropical fragrance, most delicate and dainty. More pronounced is Houbigant's famous Ideal, a rich bouquet. Peau d'Espagne, is a man's perfume, positively masculine. Violette Houbigant is a reminiscence of shady woods a master achievement in the making of a violet odor. Houbigant brings to you the perfumed moonlight in his Jasmin; his La Rose France is an epitome of Pompadour and the salons of old France; Houbigant's Giroflee is a languorous dream; his Lilies of the Valley, Muguet, an exotic rapture; and his Carnation of the King, Oeillet du Roi, a royal duplicate of this exquisite flower; each one a revelation of unique fragrance and exquisitely good taste to its delighted recipient."

Scent Story:

At the 1900 World's Fair in Paris, amidst the grandeur of the pavilions and the bustling crowds, Houbigant unveiled their masterpiece, Le Parfum Idéal, in a spectacle of elegance and allure. As you approach the Houbigant exhibit, the air is filled with a symphony of scents, drawing you closer with its vibrant and chic fragrance.

You see the Houbigant pavilion, adorned with elaborate floral decorations that echo the notes within the perfume itself. The entrance is draped with cascading bouquets of roses and ylang ylang, their petals shimmering in the sunlight, casting a delicate aroma that mingles with the bustling chatter of fair-goers.

Upon entering, your eyes are immediately drawn to the presentation of Le Parfum Idéal. The crystal flacons by Baccarat catch the light, refracting it into a dazzling display of colors, their apothecary style and flat-topped stoppers exuding an air of refined luxury. Nestled inside their floral-printed cotton cases, lined with canary yellow silk, the bottles gleam like precious gems, enticing you to experience their contents.

As you approach the perfume display, you gently pick up one of the bottles. The smooth, cool surface of the crystal flacon feels luxurious in your hand, its weight reassuringly substantial. You unscrew the stopper and a burst of citrus notes immediately greets your senses, sparkling and fresh like the first rays of morning sunlight. The tangy zest of lemon and bergamot intertwines with the spicy warmth of carnation, creating a lively and invigorating opening that dances in the air around you.

Bringing the flacon closer, you breathe in deeply. The heart of Le Parfum Idéal unfolds like a bouquet of the finest flowers. Bulgarian rose petals unfurl delicately, their velvety aroma blending seamlessly with the exotic sweetness of ylang ylang. Orange blossom adds a touch of brightness, while jasmine lends its intoxicating floral richness, enveloping you in a floral symphony that evokes the essence of a sun-drenched garden in full bloom.

As the perfume settles on your skin, the base notes reveal themselves, anchoring the fragrance with depth and allure. Vanilla and tonka bean wrap you in a warm embrace, their creamy sweetness tempered by the earthy richness of patchouli and the subtle resinous warmth of benzoin. Ambergris and musk add a touch of sensuality, while sandalwood and oakmoss impart a lingering elegance that caresses your senses like a whisper of silk.

Amidst the fragrance's complexity, you hear the murmurs of admiration from other fair-goers, captivated by the perfume's sophistication and originality. The air is filled with snippets of conversation in various languages, discussing the allure and unique composition of Le Parfum Idéal, a perfume that has redefined floral fragrances with its chic vibrancy and timeless appeal.

In this moment, surrounded by the opulence and artistry of the World's Fair, you experience not just a perfume, but a sensory journey through the essence of Le Parfum Idéal. It is a fragrance that embodies the spirit of its time, capturing the beauty of nature and the sophistication of Parisian elegance in every radiant note.

Bottles:

The initial flacon for Le Parfum Idéal, crafted by Baccarat, epitomizes the exquisite artistry of late 19th-century perfume packaging. Reflecting Baccarat's renowned crystal craftsmanship, the flacon is designed in a classic apothecary style, distinguished by its elegant silhouette and flat-topped stopper. This style of flacon became synonymous with the perfume, often presented within a charming floral-printed cotton case. Inside, the case is luxuriously lined with canary yellow silk, adding a touch of opulence and protecting the precious bottle within.

The presentation's design, credited to Alfred Javal, draws inspiration from an Oriental carpet observed at Deauville, capturing elements of exoticism and refinement. This influence manifests in the intricate floral patterns and vibrant colors that adorn the presentation case, harmonizing with the fragrance's floral and aromatic notes. Together, the Baccarat crystal flacon and its meticulously designed casing embody the essence of Le Parfum Idéal, offering a sensory and visual experience that epitomizes the luxury and sophistication of its era.

Perfumery and Essential Oil Record, Volume 3, 1912:

"The house of Houbigant some 12 years ago, we are told, was the first to introduce the cut-glass bottle into perfumery, and to adopt an artistic style of presentation not previously attempted, the immense popularity accorded to "Parfum Ideal" being proof that a perfect perfume exquisitely- exhibited is irresistible."

Bottle sizes:

• stands 5" tall.
• 2 oz bottle stands 4" tall.
• 1 1/5 oz bottle stands 3.25" tall
• 1 oz bottle stands 3.75" tall.
• 0.5 oz stands 2.75" tall.
• 0.25 oz stands 2.5" tall.

This bottle was also used for the Eau de Toilette.

• Bottle stands 6" tall.

Louis XV Flacon:

From 1924 to 1930, a limited edition of Le Parfum Idéal was presented in a truly exquisite manner, housed within the renowned "Louis XV flacon" crafted by Baccarat. This distinguished crystal flacon epitomized luxury with its elongated neck and fluted base, adorned with elaborate gilded etchings depicting pastoral scenes. Each delicate detail, meticulously etched into the crystal, evoked the opulence and elegance of the Louis XV era, a testament to the craftsmanship for which Baccarat was celebrated.

The flacon's stopper, crafted from ground glass, was a marvel in itself—a perfectly spherical shape entirely gilded, reflecting light like a precious jewel. Its golden hue added a touch of regal splendor to the overall presentation, complementing the ornate beauty of the flacon. This limited edition packaging not only enhanced the allure of Le Parfum Idéal but also elevated it to a collectible status, cherished by connoisseurs of fine perfumery and artistry alike.

Vanity Fair, 1927:

"The most successful odeurs of perfume history are Quelques Fleurs and Le Parfum Ideal, by Houbigant. These odeurs, in the Louis XV bottle designed for Houbigant by Baccarat, of Paris, are especially appropriate as gifts — each is $25.00."

photo by ebay seller anteequity

 Eau de Toilette Flacon:

Another notable presentation of Le Parfum Idéal is found in a tall eau de toilette flacon made of pressed glass, characterized by its elegant simplicity and refined design. This bottle features a frosted glass stopper intricately molded with stylized flowers that mirror those adorning the pattern on the presentation case of the prestigious Baccarat flacon. While some may mistake this design for Lalique, it's important to note that this creation is distinctly Houbigant's, crafted to embody the essence of sophistication and timeless beauty.

During its availability from the 1920s to the 1930s, this bottle became synonymous with the allure of Le Parfum Idéal, its pressed glass construction offering a tactile elegance that complements the fragrance within. The base of the bottle proudly bears the molded name "Houbigant," a mark of authenticity and quality. This presentation not only provided a more accessible option for enthusiasts of the perfume but also ensured that its essence of floral elegance and oriental allure continued to enchant wearers across generations.

Eau de Toilette c1920, photo from quirky finds

Square Bottle:

Another distinctive variant of Le Parfum Idéal is housed in a flat, narrow, square bottle crafted from colorless glass, a design that epitomizes elegance and simplicity. This particular bottle, dating from the 1920s to the 1930s, features a unique small, tab-shaped stopper made of ground glass, entirely gilded to impart a touch of luxury and refinement. This gilded stopper adds a regal accent to the bottle's understated silhouette, enhancing its visual appeal while securely sealing in the captivating fragrance within. It was also available in a slimmer design.

This style of bottle was not exclusive to Le Parfum Idéal but was also used for various other perfumes by Houbigant during that era, reflecting a design ethos that combined practicality with aesthetic appeal. The simple geometric shape of the bottle, along with its gilded stopper, evokes a sense of art deco elegance, resonating with the style and sophistication of the Roaring Twenties. Its clarity and simplicity make it a timeless choice for presenting Le Parfum Idéal, ensuring that the fragrance inside remains the focal point of the sensory experience it offers to those who appreciate its enduring allure.

Photo by quirky finds.

c1932 purse flacon with flip top lid, called Parfum pour le Sac

Lalique Flacons:

During the 1920s, the collaboration between Houbigant and renowned glass artist René Lalique yielded a series of exquisite triangular-shaped bottles that became iconic in the world of perfumery. Designed to house various Houbigant fragrances, including the celebrated Le Parfum Idéal, these bottles were distinguished by their elegant geometry and Lalique's signature craftsmanship. Each bottle featured unique stopper shapes and intricate embossed designs, showcasing Lalique's mastery in transforming glass into works of art.

What made these bottles even more exceptional was their presentation within the "Ensemble Houbigant," a luxurious silk-lined circular box originally designed to hold four bottles. This ensemble not only protected the bottles but also enhanced their visual appeal, presenting them as a collectible set that epitomized luxury and sophistication. Today, finding these Lalique-designed bottles and their accompanying presentation box can be quite rare, as they are cherished by collectors for their historical significance and exquisite beauty, offering a glimpse into a bygone era of perfumery artistry and elegance.

Original Costs:

Based on the original 1920 prices using an inflation calculator, these products would cost the following in 2024 money:

• Ideal extract would cost $69.16 to $134.25.
• Ideal toilet water would cost $117.98
• Ideal face powder would cost $81.37.
• Ideal Talcum would cost $16.27.
• Quelques Fleurs extract would cost $85.43 to $309.19.
• Quelques Fleurs toilet water would cost $144.83.
• Quelques Fleurs bath salts would cost $40.68.
• Quelques Fleurs face powder would cost $101.71.
• Quelques Fleurs talcum would cost $16.27.

In 1927, Le Parfum Ideal extract retailed for $1.75, $3.50, $6.75, and $12.50. Prices went up from what they were in 1920.

Based on the original 1927 prices using an inflation calculator, these products would cost the following in 2024 money:

• $1.75 ($31.41)
• $3.50 ($62.81)
• $6.75 ($121.14)
• $12.50 ($224.34)

Lotion Parfum Ideal, circa 1920

One of the luxurious offerings was a powder version of the fragrance, elegantly pressed into gilded brass compacts. These compacts not only provided a convenient way to carry the scent but also added a touch of sophistication to the user's grooming routine. For those who preferred a lighter application, a dusting powder infused with the perfume allowed for a delicate, fragrant veil over the skin.

In addition to these powder-based offerings, the Le Parfum Idéal line featured a range of scented essentials. A lotion, described as a hair lotion, offered a fragrant way to nourish and scent the hair. The eau vegetable provided a refreshing splash of the fragrance, perfect for revitalizing the skin throughout the day. Face powder and compact rouge provided cosmetic options that imparted both beauty and fragrance, ensuring a cohesive olfactory experience.

For indulgent self-care rituals, bath salts infused with Le Parfum Idéal allowed for a fragrant, relaxing soak, while sachets provided a subtle yet pervasive scent for linens and clothing. Talcum powder offered a classic way to enjoy the fragrance in a daily grooming routine, providing both scent and silky smoothness to the skin. Brilliantine for the hair added a final touch of luxury, infusing strands with a delicate, perfumed sheen.

In 1953, Houbigant introduced a groundbreaking addition to the Le Parfum Idéal line with the Skin Sachet. This concentrated, creamy liquid was formulated with a sachet base, designed to release the perfume slowly over time, ensuring that its alluring scent clung to the skin for hours. This innovation represented a fusion of perfumery and skincare, offering a luxurious way to enhance and prolong the olfactory experience of Le Parfum Idéal throughout the day.

Together, these products not only complemented the iconic fragrance but also allowed wearers to immerse themselves in a complete sensory journey, enveloped in the timeless elegance and allure of Le Parfum Idéal by Houbigant.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Following the success of Houbigant's Le Parfum Idéal, several other perfumeries sought to capitalize on its popularity by releasing their own interpretations under the name "Ideal." Companies like Du Barry, Clermont et E Fouet, J E McBrady & Co, Ostheimer Brothers, Paul Reiger & C, Vallant, and others launched their versions of Ideal at various points in time, each offering their unique take on the beloved fragrance concept.

Despite its initial acclaim and widespread availability, Houbigant's Le Parfum Idéal was eventually discontinued around 1970. However, its legacy endures in the realm of vintage perfume collecting, where enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike can still discover remnants of its allure. Vintage perfume bottles and powders from the Le Parfum Idéal line continue to surface regularly in online markets and auctions, providing a tangible link to the elegance and sophistication of early 20th-century perfumery. These artifacts not only evoke nostalgia but also serve as cherished pieces of olfactory history, preserving the essence of a fragrance that once captivated the senses with its floral oriental charm.